Broccoli with Sauce Mornay

5 05 2011

Raw foodists love to sing broccoli’s praises, telling of the folate and antioxidants in the crunchy green stems. But my kids refuse to join the chorus. For some reason, they’ll happily eat turnips and radishes and kale but whine and pout about broccoli. To get this Super Food into their tummies at dinner last night, I knew I needed to A) cook it (raw was out of the question). I also needed to B) perk it up. And I knew just what would do the trick: sauce Mornay.

You might not recognize the French name, but you’ve likely tasted this creamy white sauce, a staple of French cuisine. Essentially a bechamel flavored with cheese, sauce mornay is a classic with chicken, vegetables and even fish. Unfortunately, after an entire generation insisted on using it to drown often overcooked vegetables, it fell out of favor.

Now we’ve swung so far to the other side of the spectrum that the concept of a white sauce is a novelty. Indeed, my kids were stunned to find a platter of sauce-covered broccoli at the dinner table. “What is it?” they wanted to know. After a few bites their skepticism faded and the broccoli disappeared in record time.

Sauce Mornay
1 T butter
1 1/2 T flour
1 cup hot milk
1/4 cup parmesan cheese

In a small saucepan over low heat, melt butter and whisk in flour. Stir and let bubble for about two minutes. Remove from heat and add hot milk. Whisk until mixture comes to a boil. Raise heat and boil for one minute, stirring well. Remove from heat and add cheese, salt and pepper. This recipe can be easily doubled.





Sweet Potato Fries

1 05 2011

As a professional food writer and restaurant critic, I keep an eye on trends. For the past few years, one of them has been burgers. Convenience aside, I just don’t see the appeal. The sad truth is that most burger joints, even high end ones, simply don’t live up to the local and organic standards that many of us set for ourselves and for our families. Organic produce? Humanely raised beef? Reasonable amounts of sodium? No, no and no.

So when the kids wanted burgers for dinner yesterday, I knew where we were going before the words were out of their mouths. And we didn’t even have to click our heels three times to get there. There’s just no place like home when it comes to food that’s really treated with care.

For the patties themselves, I used high quality ground beef from a cow raised at the CSA that I belong to. Kosher salt, pepper and a little trick I learned from Bobby Flay about not smashing the meat when you shape the patty were all I needed to whip up some restaurant-caliber burgers.

But you can’t have burgers without fries, and I wasn’t about to give some spuds a double dip in the deep fryer. (Yes, a double dip. How else do you think restaurants can get them so crisp?). Instead, I made something far lower in fat and, with all those A and C vitamins, far healthier, too: sweet potato fries.

Sweet potato fries are simple to make. Just peel and cut the sweet potatoes into fry-sized slices. Toss them lightly in olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and put them on a parchment-lined baking sheet at 450 for 25-35 minutes, or until crisp. Like any fries, these are absolutely delish when they come out of the oven, but their appeal fades as they cool. So eat them fast. At my house you have to, or you risk not getting any!





Strawberry Mousse

28 04 2011

Spring is in full bloom and summer will be here before we know it. Now is the time to use up any fruits and vegetables you froze last summer so there’s room for this year’s goodies.

My kids love berries so about half my deep freezer was devoted to organic strawberries, blueberries and raspberries. We spent the winter enjoying them in homemade frozen yogurt, cakes and pies, but last night I decided to try something different: mousse.

This recipe is one of my childhood favorites, a specialty of my grandmother who spent many hours watching Julia Child and many more hours teaching me my way around the kitchen. Make it with fresh or frozen strawberries, but remember to buy organic because strawberries tend to soak up pesticide and you don’t want that with your dessert. To serve, spoon into espresso cups or small glass bowls; a small portion is all you need given all the cream.

Strawberry Mousse
10 ounces frozen strawberries or 1/2 pint fresh
3-ounce package strawberry gelatin
A few tablespoons sugar
1/2 pint heavy whipping cream

Clean the strawberries if using fresh, and crush them. Sweeten with a few tablespoons of sugar and set aside. If there’s any juice, drain it and pour it into a measuring cup. Fill with water to reach 3/4 cup. Pour liquid into a small pan and bring to a boil, then add gelatin, stirring to dissolve. Remove from heat and cool. Meanwhile, whip cream into stiff peaks. When gelatin mixture is cool, stir into strawberries, then fold in cream. Pour into a medium glass bowl and refrigerate for several hours.





Curried Egg Salad

26 04 2011

After hosting Easter dinner for 21 folks, I haven’t felt much like cooking. So my rules for dinner this week are as follows: 1) It shall be quick and easy to prepare; 2) It shall involve the contents of my pantry; 3) It shall NOT require a trip to the store. And here’s the most important part: It must include all of those ridiculously bright pink, purple and green hard-boiled eggs taking up space in my fridge.

Egg salad is the obvious choice, but my oldest has an aversion to chalky yolks. She does, however, like Indian food so I’m hoping that a liberal dose of curry will win her over. Served with whole wheat pita and a green salad, this makes for a quick, protein-packed dinner. And it follows all of my rules. (To cut down on the cholesterol, you could use some whole eggs and some whites.)

Curried Egg Salad
6-8 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and chopped
1/4 to 1/3 cup light mayo
1/4 cup raisins or dried cranberries
1/3 cup chopped celery
1 to 1 1/4 teaspoons curry powder

Mix ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Add more mayo or curry, if desired.





Almond Cake

22 01 2011

One of my resolutions is to be a perimeter shopper, someone who avoids the interior aisles full of boxes and cans in favor of the fruits, vegetables, dairy, bread and meat on the outside of the store. For years my family has been moving in that direction, and in truth we buy very little processed food as it is. But until this year there have been exceptions, such as cereal, frozen breakfast burritos and the organic mac and cheese my kids eat with a sitter when my husband and I go out.

And since honesty is the best policy, I’ll ‘fess up to one more. Brownie mix.

How many times have I turned to those boxes when I needed a quick, sure-to-please dessert? Too many to count. But last week when I was expecting a houseful of folks for a nighttime meeting, I had no box to turn to. So I did what my grandmother would have done and pulled out a cookbook. I flipped through, looking for something quick and easy, not to mention something that could be made with basic pantry ingredients as I didn’t have time to run to the store. What I found was this delicate almond cake, which is hardly more complicated than what comes from a box but is infinitely more special because it clearly is not.

Almond Cake

scant 1 cup white flour
3/4 cup sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup butter, melted
1 egg, beaten
1 T almond extract
1/4 cup chopped almonds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch cake pan, then line with wax paper and grease paper, too. Mix flour, sugar, salt and baking powder in a medium bowl. Add melted butter, egg and almond extract and mix well. Pour into pan, sprinkle almonds on top and bake about 25 minutes, or until toothpick comes out clean.





Cooking Tip: Degreasing Chicken Stock

19 01 2011

I used to buy canned chicken broth with nary a thought. Then a friend made some black bean soup with homemade stock and I realized how much better my own soups would be if I chucked the cans. (I also became increasingly concerned about the chemicals in the lining of the cans, but that’s another story.) So for a few years now I’ve been freezing my own stock to use when I want to make soup.

But over the holidays I used up my stash of frozen stock, so last week when I made chicken soup I had to start from scratch. What I’d forgotten, however, was the little problem of de-greasing it. The best way to do this is to make it one day and let it cool overnight in the fridge. The fat will congeal on the top in a yellowish, Crisco-like layer (yummy, I know). Then it can be quickly and easily lifted off for a soup that tastes better and is healthier for your heart.

What to do if you run out of time and don’t have hours to let the soup cool in the fridge? As my kids and I learned last week, a snow drift works fine, too. We put the stock pot (uncovered) in the snow on our patio, moving its position as the snow around it melted. In about 30 minutes, the fat had risen and could be skimmed off the top!





Chicken Calzones

16 01 2011

We all have those weeks when dinner means takeout and the kids are scrounging through the laundry looking for a shirt that’s (close to) clean. When those weeks are over — that is, when you have 15 minutes to spare — it pays to do some meal planning. Because when it comes to weeknight dinners, a little planning pays off.

You can do yourself an even bigger favor if you designate a few overlapping ingredients. For example, last week I used a whole organic chicken for homemade chicken noodle soup. A few days later, I used the leftover shredded chicken in whole wheat calzones. Broccoli also did double duty. One night we ate it as a simple side dish. I cooked extra, saving what we didn’t eat for these calzones.

I love this recipe because it packs a nutritional punch, not just from the protein in the chicken and the whole grains in the dough, but from the stealth addition of chopped, cooked broccoli. If your kids are vegetable averse, they’ll probably not even notice it given the yummy cover of parmesan and pesto. The recipe makes four large calzones, but you could easily shape six or eight smaller ones and save the leftovers for lunch.

Chicken Calzones
Adapted from a recipe in The Sunset Cookbook

1 recipe whole wheat pizza dough (see below)
1 1/3 cup shredded mozzarella
½ cup pesto
1 cup cooked chopped broccoli
1 cup shredded, cooked chicken
¼ cup parmesan
Salt and pepper to taste

Dough
¼ ounce active dry yeast
½ tsp sugar
2 T olive oil
2 cups whole wheat flour
½ tsp salt

Mix yeast, sugar and 1/3 cup warm water in a bowl and let sit until bubbly. Add another 1/3 cup warm water, oil, flour and salt and mix well. Knead on a floured surface for several minutes until dough is smooth, adding drops of water if necessary. Place in an oiled bowl and cover while you prepare the remaining ingredients (30 minutes is ideal, but don’t worry if it’s less).

Divide dough into four pieces. Press into 6-inch rounds. Mix remaining ingredients. Spoon onto bottom half of circle, leaving a half-inch border. Fold top half over and pinch edges together. Brush with olive oil and place on oiled cookie sheet. Bake at 450 for 20-25 minutes.








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