Local & Sophisticated

27 01 2009

Let’s get one thing straight: You don’t have to be a farmer to eat locally.

Okay, so that’s obvious. We all buy from farmers’ markets and seek out local goodies from Whole Foods. But be honest. Deep down inside, as you ponder how to add more local ingredients to your diet, aren’t you afraid someone will assume you’re one slippery slope away from driving a pick-up and owning a pressure canner?

Eating locally still conveys a bit of homeliness that, frankly, it doesn’t deserve.

After all, many restaurants have joined in the local parade. Props to Tucker Shaw in last Wednesday’s Denver Post (“The Audacity of Dinner”) for bringing that fact to people’s attention in his discussion of Shazz. Shaw describes the menu as “contemporary fare” that’s, in the words of chef/owner Benny Kaplan, “ingredient-driven.” And many ingredients come from local sources, including dairy from Wholesome Milk Products in Pueblo and all-natural beef from River Ranches in Steamboat. Other local sources are listed on the restaurant’s website.

Shazz isn’t the only area restaurant focused on local and sustainably harvested ingredients. The Kitchen in Boulder and Duo immediately come to mind as being dedicated adherents to this philosophy. Bravo to all three for showing us that local and sophisticated can be synonyms.





Personalities: Javernick Family Farms

26 01 2009

Cooks love summer, when the year’s best strawberries, tomatoes and sweet corn are finally rolling in. But Beki Javernick of Javernick Family Farms begs to differ. “Spring,” she says, without hesitation. “I really love when you do seeding in the greenhouse. You get that little layer of vibrant green sprouts at a time when nothing else is green.”

Seeding begins in February and the annual cycle of nurturing, watering, weeding and harvesting begins. For Beki, it’s a familiar routine. The granddaughter of a Colorado rancher/farmer, she remembers many an afternoon spent transplanting cabbages and helping out wherever needed after school. After moving away and getting an art degree, Beki returned to Canon City in 2004. She started the CSA the following year, planting everything from artichokes to zucchini on 13 acres that still belong to her grandparents. Javernick Family Farms remains a family operation, with mom and dad pitching in—and her toddler watching on.

While the farm isn’t certified organic (more about the certification process another time), they follow organic practices and are good stewards of the land, practicing crop rotation and the like. But give her a minute and Beki will eagerly tell you that local is just as important as organic. “It’s important to keep the chain as short as possible,” she stresses, something she does by buying carrot seed from a local farmer and using local compost, for example. For more information on her CSA, which runs from May to October, visit www.javernickfamilyfarms.com.





The Secret Ingredient

21 01 2009

I’ve interviewed a lot of chefs over the years, and one of my favorite questions is this: What’s your earliest food memory?

Since honesty is the best policy, I’ll start off by saying that mine comes somewhat secondhand, borrowed from a cousin five years my junior. I was eight at the time, spending the summer with my grandparents, when Amy waltzed into the backyard, licking an enormous spoonful of white fluffiness. “Mmm, whipped cream,” I said. “Nope,” she replied, “mayonnaise.”

Lurch. Expecting sweet and getting savory – a huge, grinning mouthful of it – sent my stomach into a free-for-all, the likes of which you normally associate with log rides and roller coasters. Perhaps that’s why I didn’t tell my children about the secret ingredient in the quick bread I made today for their after-school snack. “How about some spice bread?” I asked, knowing they’d easily devour half a loaf. What’s not to love about cinnamon and cloves and ginger? I’m not the betting kind, but I’m pretty sure the response would’ve been less enthusiastic if I’d offered another kind of bread. Say, squash bread.

What is it that makes squash bread sound so, well, yucky? Pumpkin bread is delicious, zucchini bread, too. But squash bread? Not exactly a popular title in most cookbooks. Squash isn’t the problem, at least not in my house, for the kids like it just fine when it’s sautéed with garlic and tossed with parsley. I think it’s that age old problem of expecting one thing and getting another. Like Heinz’s green ketchup, for example. Some leaps are just too big for the eyes – and stomach – to make.

But back to the bread. Like other grated vegetables, squash makes perfect sense because it keeps the batter moist while filling it with added nutrients. Plus squash is readily found this time of year, either at the grocery store (albeit shipped in from somewhere else) or local (if you were part of a CSA last summer and stashed away some of the excess in your freezer). So why not get out the grater and bake some bread? Spice bread, that is.

Click here for the recipe: Spice Bread





Spice Bread

21 01 2009

Put 1 cup wheat flour, 1 cup white flour, ½ to 2/3 cup sugar, 1 ½ tsp baking powder, ½ tsp baking soda, ½ tsp salt, 2 tsp cinnamon, ¼ tsp nutmeg, ½ tsp ginger and ¼ tsp cloves in a large bowl and whisk. In a separate bowl, blend 1 cup packed grated summer squash, ¼ cup olive oil, 1 egg and 1 egg white, 1 tsp vanilla and ¼ cup plain yogurt. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ones, mix until just blended and put in greased loaf pan. Bake at 350 for 50-55 minutes. And don’t tell anyone about the secret ingredient – at least until they’ve agreed to taste it.





Cupboard sans Carottes

16 01 2009

monroe carrots

monroe carrots

After years of reading “Old Mother Hubbard” (“and when she came there/the cupboard was bare/and so the poor dog had none”), I struck an emotional connection to the rhyme yesterday that blew the dust off those words.

The a-ha moment came while making chicken soup, a staple at my house given my desire to spend more time rolling balls for  snowmen and less time cooking. So there I am, making chicken soup, when I open the crisper to find No.Carrots. Sure, chicken soup can be made sans carottes, but it ends up reminding me of one of those monochrome meals from college with cheesy broccoli and tater tots sidled up next to saucy noodles.

How could my cupboard be bare? Not bare, exactly, but bare enough that it lacked the mirepoix essentials? At one point in my life, when I lived on the Upper East side, I picked up groceries every day. A few tomatoes, a banana, whatever I needed from a street vendor on the walk home from the subway. Over the years my trips have dwindled in inverse proportion to my family size. Now there are five of us and I shop once a week, mostly for milk, yogurt and whatever protein I’ll build our menus around. The veggies come from my farm share, which drops from weekly to bi-monthly in the winter. Given the holiday, there hadn’t been a goodie bag in a month, and with a house full of company we’d long ago blown through it. Onions? Gone. Spaghetti squash? Gone. Potatoes? Ditto. All that remained were two heads of garlic, but they weren’t going to be a satisfying stand-in for my missing carrots.

But today was CSA pick-up day and thankfully, I’m back in business. One-and-a-half pounds of freshly scrubbed carrots—cleaned under the admiring eye of my 7-year-old (“Wow, look at all that dirt!”)—are now sitting in my vegetable drawer, just waiting for the next batch of chicken soup. This time with carrots.

Click here for my recipe for Chicken Soup





Chicken Soup

16 01 2009

Rinse 3-4 pounds chicken (bone-in breasts, thighs and drumsticks are a good combo) and put in stockpot with water to cover. Add a quartered onion, 3 carrots, 4 celery stalks (leaves and all), a bay leaf and a teaspoon of dried thyme. Let boil then turn down and simmer until chicken is done, skimming foam as it develops. Remove chicken from the pot and take off the meat, adding the bones back in for flavor. Let simmer, partially covered, for up to five hours, then strain. In a separate pot cook 4 or 5 extra carrots and add them to the finished soup along with a few good handfuls of shredded chicken, plus spinach or whatever leafy greans are lying around. Salt and pepper to taste. If you want noodles, cook them separately and add them in just before eating so they don’t get mushy.





No (Freezer) Burn-Out

12 01 2009

No matter where I’ve lived — tiny studio in Manhattan, somewhat roomier rental in Hoboken, 99-year-old house in Denver — my freezers have looked eerily the same. Always a well-stocked kitchen outside, but break the vacuum seal and inside was just ice cubes, Stouffer’s mac and cheese, and a few bananas I’d dutifully preserved in the (unfounded) hope of making banana bread. Unfounded in that over the hundreds of times I’ve made it and the scores of recipes I’ve tried (white flour, whole wheat flour, low-fat, gluten-free, with chocolate chips, with or without nuts, with egg whites but no yolks, etc.) I’d never once cracked open the freezer to use any of those objects formerly known as bananas.

And I still haven’t.

But tonight I did something better. At quarter to five, when my children were building snow forts and throwing snowballs, I cobbled together a soul-warming side dish to go along with our split pea soup and biscuits. The surprise? Everything but the spices came from our freezer. I never thought I’d see the day.

This summer I spent every Tuesday night processing the box of produce I’d picked up from Monroe Organic Farms, the CSA I joined. Every week my family downed more vegetables than I thought humanly possible for hubbie, three young kids and me, but still there were more beans, tomatoes and peppers than we could handle. So I began — gulp — blanching and freezing things, putting them in ziplocs with labels like my grandmother used to. Not trusting that they’d ever see the light of day, much less the inside of my All-Clad, but not wanting to toss them outright.

Fast forward five months. Soup for dinner, biscuits to go along with, but no veggies. So I went to the freezer and grabbed the first bag I laid hands on: green beans. Then dug for an onion — everything starts with an onion, right? — and headed to my cookbooks. I was envisioning a riff on a warm potato salad with a light vinaigrette. But inside Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything, a recipe for braised cauliflower with curry and tomatoes caught my eye. Hmm. I could do something with this. I ran back downstairs for frozen diced red peppers, grabbed the tomatoes and tinkered with the recipe to suit my ingredients. In 15 minutes we had an aromatic Indian-style side dish, all of which was LOCAL except for the olive oil and spices: onions, garlic, green beans, tomatoes, red peppers. Enough spices to intrigue my kids’ palates, not too much heat to turn them off (you can add cayenne if you like, but I left it out).  I still don’t have high hopes for those rockhard bananas, but now I’ve seen the resurrection and believe that life post-freezer is possible.

Here’s my take on Curried Green Beans with Tomatoes.





Curried Green Beans with Tomatoes

12 01 2009

Trim and blanch 12 oz green beans. Melt 1 T butter, add a few good shakes of powdered ginger and a minced garlic clove. Cook over medium heat while measuring out these spices: 1/4 tsp turmeric, 1/4 tsp cinnamon, pinch nutmeg, 1/2 tsp ground coriander, 1/2 tsp cumin. Add and stir until fragrant, then drop in beans, a diced red pepper, and 2 diced tomatoes (or a 14-ounce can of organic diced tomatoes). Frozen peas are good for color, a cup or so. If your tomatoes are fresh add 1/4 cup water, but my frozen ones leaked a lot of H2O so don’t add unless necessary. Cover until everything is cooked through, salt to taste, kick up the cumin, ginger, or whatever your palate desires.








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