A Lesson from Asparagus

30 05 2009

As you know if you’ve been reading this blog, I visited our CSA recently for a pick-your-own asparagus harvest. In less than an hour, we picked more asparagus than I’ve probably purchased in my entire life. The past few weeks have been an exercise in preparing this vegetable so as not to bore my husband and kids.

But it’s been more than that. It’s been a reminder about the differences between what I had been doing — which was shopping for and cooking anything we had a taste for — and eating seasonally.

In springtimes past, I’d shop for a pound or two of asparagus with a specific recipe in mind. At $3.99 a pound (or more, depending on where I was shopping), it wasn’t something to buy lightly. But with 11 pounds to go through, I felt free to experiment with new recipes and techniques. I used it in pasta, roasted it with parmesan, ate it cold with white beans and feta, and doused it with soy sauce and dark sesame oil. In short, I felt the extravagance known to farmers but lost on those of us who have long relied on grocery stores for our food.

When you eat seasonally, you learn that when something is in, it’s really IN. And you do whatever you can to savor it, because it won’t be around again for another year.





Why Eat Seasonally?

28 05 2009

If you’re reading this blog, chances are you’re already inspired to eat seasonally. But I bet there are people in your life — sisters, spouses, parents — who think your insistence on farm-fresh produce is a little overboard. To all those folks, I say pick up the June issue of Eating Well and read A Recipe for Life . (I also say, please check out this blog — smile.)

In the article, Lisa Gosselin mentions several compelling reasons for following the seasons and shopping at farmers’ markets, including:

* reducing our carbon footprint
* creating jobs on local farms
* making it easier for people to eat the recommended five daily servings of fruits and veggies

In short, when produce is picked ripe and sold quickly (rather than picked green and shipped far away), it tastes better and we buy more of it, thus improving our health and helping our farmers. Still need convincing? Just have those skeptics taste a lycopene-rich, farm-fresh tomato. Mmm.





Thanks, and Basil Tips

26 05 2009

Thanks so much to everyone who came out to the Denver Botanic Gardens tonight for the showing of “Good Food.” If you picked up some of the organic basil I was giving out, here’s the growing info:

Organic Genovese Basil (classic Italian Basil)

Planting depth: 1/8 to 1/4 inch
Plant spacing: 8-12 inches
Days to maturity: 65-75
Soil Temp for germination: 70-85 degrees
Days to germination: 6-12
Sun: Full sun
Water: Moderate water

Dorothy Eberhard, a longtime volunteer at the Denver Botanic Gardens, shared the following tips with me earlier this month:

Start the seeds indoors in a soil-less, seed-starting mix. Sprinkle the seeds on top of the mix, then cover with 1/8 of an inch of seed-starting mix. “If they float to the surface when you water them,” she said, “just push them down.” Keep the soil moist and when they have sprouted about an inch or so high, transplant them to potting soil.

Dorothy puts seedlings into plastic four-pack containers (the kind you get nursery plants in) and places them in a foil tray in a sunny, south-facing window. She puts water in the bottom of the tray and also feeds it from above to encourage strong growth. Keep the plants indoors until all threat of frost has passed, which in Denver is late May (so you’re safe now), then transplant them to your garden or to a container outside. Good luck, and thanks again for visiting SeedtoSpoon.com!





“Good Food” Screening this Tuesday

25 05 2009

Come join me at the Denver Botanic Gardens on Tuesday, May 26, for a screening of “Good Food: Sustainable Food and Farming in the Pacific Northwest.” From 6-7, I will be at a SeedtoSpoon table and would love to talk with you! Other foodies will be there too, including CSA farmers, food photographers, and food vendors. For more details, read the following info from the Denver Botanic Gardens:

Sustainability Film Series Good Food: Sustainable Food and Farming in the Pacific Northwest
May 26, 7:00 PM—9:00 PM
Denver Botanic Gardens
$8.00 (Member pre registered) / $10.00 (Non member pre registered) / $15.00 (All Walk ins)
More Information »

With special guests Melissa Young and Mark Dworkin, makers of the film Good Food
Something remarkable is happening in the fields and orchards of the Pacific Northwest. After leaving the land for decades, family farmers are making a comeback. They are growing much healthier food, and more food per acre, while using less energy and water than factory farms. And most of this food is organic. For decades Northwest agriculture was focused on a few big crops for export. But climate change and the end of cheap energy mean that each region needs to produce more of its own food and to grow it more sustainably. Good Food visits farmers, farmers’ markets, distributors, stores, restaurants and public officials who are developing a more sustainable food system for all.
On this special evening, join filmmakers Melissa Young and Mark Dworkin for an engaging and personal discussion of what local food means in their community and yours. To view the trailer, go to www.goodfoodthemovie.org. $8 member, $10 non-member pre-registered. Walk-ins: $15, space available. Proceeds benefit the Grow Local Colorado campaign and Denver Botanic Gardens. In Mitchell Hall.





Shoots & Leaves

20 05 2009

IMG_0710Remember that funny book called Eats, Shoots & Leaves? I thought of it at the Boulder Farmers’ Market last weekend when the good folks at Red Wagon Organic Farm handed me a tangle of pea shoots. Try them, they said, they taste like peas.

My four-year-old shot me a quizzical glance, small green leaves dangling from his fingers. The look on his face captured that same feeling recorded by author Lynne Truss in regard to comma confusion. Only my son can’t read, and his confusion was over the newfangled food this stranger was urging him to eat. I could see the thoughts swirling in his head: “Pea shoots? I like peas, but peas are round and this looks like that arugula stuff you’ve been putting on my plate…”

Before he could say anything I tasted the shoots, and following in my footsteps he cautiously followed suit. They were crisp, fresh, light and perfumed with a subtle pea taste. In other words, they were delicious. We bought a bag, delighted to have discovered something new.

And now, a few days later, we enjoyed them with fried eggs for a simple summer dinner, dressed lightly with lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and parmesan cheese shavings. We were told they are good cooked ever so briefly and served with fish or mixed with other greens, but I am still so happy to be eating fresh greens after a winter of root vegetables that I’ll stick with the salad.





Wanted: New Flavors for Asparagus

17 05 2009

IMG_0652 (2)For the past two weeks we’ve been eating our way through a laundry basket of asparagus (picked with the kids at our CSA) using mostly French techniques and preparations. So it was a breath of fresh air to apply other flavors to the remaining three pounds of organic spears left in the fridge.

A scan of several cookbooks revealed intriguing soups and souffles, but I knew as soon as I cracked open Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone that I’d uncovered a gem in Sesame Noodles with Asparagus Tips. With dark sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger and toasted sesame seeds, the dish is oddly refreshing and deeply flavorful. It’s easy to half or double, as the case may be, and it’s also impossibly quick to prepare, which I especially appreciated on this summery day as it allowed less time in the kitchen and more time to go around the block with little ones on training wheels. Note: the recipe calls for thin Chinese egg noodles, but I successfully substituted ramen noodles (without the flavor packet) since that’s what I had in the pantry.

Click here for the recipe for Sesame Noodles with Asparagus Tips.





Sesame Noodles with Asparagus Tips

17 05 2009

This recipe comes from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, which I use often and highly recommend.

Don’t be afraid to try it if you don’t have everything on the ingredient list. As long as you have the fundamentals (dark sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar and sesame seeds), you can make a version worth serving. Once I substituted ramen noodles for the thin Chinese egg noodles since that’s what I had on hand and it was delicious. Another time I left out the chili oil, scallions and cilantro, and used powdered ginger in place of fresh, and it was still great. Note that the recipe serves 6-8, but you can easily cut it in half.

The Marinade
1/4 cup sesame oil
3 tbsp dark sesame oil
7 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp Chinese black or balsamic vinegar
3 1/2 tbsp dark brown sugar
2 tsp salt
2 tsp chili oil
1 tbsp minced ginger
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

The Noodles and Asparagus
Salt
2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and thinly sliced on a diagonal
1 14-ounce package thin Chinese egg noodles
10 scallions, including the firm greens, thinly sliced
1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted until lightly browned

Mix the marinade ingredients together, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt and the asparagus. Cook until bright green and tender but still firm, just a few minutes. Scoop the asparagus out, rinse it under cold water and set on a towel to dry.

Pull the noodles apart with your fingers, add them to the boiling water and give them a quick stir. Boil until tender but not overly soft, tasting them often as they cook. It should take only a few minutes. Pour the noodles into a colander and immediately rinse under cold water. Shake off the excess water.

Toss the noodles with all the marinade and most of the scallions, sesame seeds and asparagus. Mound them in a bowl or on a platter, then garnish with the remaining asparagus, scallions, and sesame seeds.





Asparagus Fatigue? Not a Chance.

11 05 2009

A week after harvesting 11 pounds of organic asparagus, I’m pleased to say that more than half of it is gone. Relieved, too, because even though we’re a family of five, I wasn’t sure we how we would fare against the mountain of spear-stuffed mason jars lurking in our fridge. Every time I opened the door, a new doubt crept in. Had we picked too much? Would my kids would set their forks down in protest?

Thankfully they didn’t, and for this I credit the vegetable’s inherent versatility. Most of us serve steamed or boiled asparagus as a simple yet elegant side dish, and so we don’t think of it as flexible. But really, asparagus is up for so much more. This tender spring veggie shines as a main course, as in the Pasta with Asparagus-Lemon Sauce that I wrote about last week. In that recipe, the stems are boiled until tender, then pureed and tossed with lemon zest, parmesan and a little cooking water in an innovative coating for the noodles.

Tonight I served grilled pork chops with sweet corn (not local but I couldn’t resist on such a summery night), plus a side salad from Farmer John’s Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables. The recipe is called Asparagus and White Bean Salad with Feta and Lemon Dressing, and it was so good when I tried it last week that I made it again for an encore. As written, the recipe calls for a half-cup of sliced radishes and 2 tbsp of thinly sliced scallions, and it is quite yummy that way. Tonight I was out of those ingredients so I substituted diced red peppers for the radishes and skipped the scallions entirely and it was equally good, especially in the eyes of the little ones.

Click here for the recipe for Asparagus and White Bean Salad with Feta and Lemon Dressing.
IMG_0656





Asparagus and White Bean Salad

11 05 2009

This recipe comes from Farmer John’s Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables, a wonderful resource from the folks at Angelic Organics, a CSA in Illinois.

A few remarks: The dressing is very light, so I usually add more lemon juice and mint. I also add in the whole can of beans, to avoid wasting the few that are left after measuring a cup. And depending on the audience, I substitute red peppers for the radishes; the peppers add the same pop of red, but they’re milder in taste and more of a crowd-pleaser.

Asparagus and White Bean Salad with Feta and Lemon Dressing
serves 4

1 pound asparagus, cut on an angle in 1-inch pieces (about 3 cups)
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tsp chopped fresh mint
1/2 tsp freshly grated lemon zest
1/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 cup cooked or canned white beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup thinly sliced radishes
2 tbsp thinly sliced scallions

1. Place the asparagus in a steamer basket, set over 1 1/2 inches boiling water and cover. Steam until the spears are tender-firm, 4 to 7 minutes depending on thickness. Drain and place in an ice water bath (or under cold, running water) for a moment to stop the cooking.

2. Put the olive oil, lemon juice, fresh mint, lemon zest, salt and pepper in a small bowl and whisk until well combined. Drain asparagus.

3. Combine the beans, feta, radishes and scallions in a large bowl. Add the asparagus pieces. Pour on the dressing and gently toss. Serve at room temperature or chilled.





Picking Asparagus

8 05 2009

asparagus at monroeEver since I was a child, I’ve loved to pick produce. My family still laughs about the time my grandfather tied apples to an out-of-season tree so I could go picking in the backyard; all smiles, I was too young to notice. So when Monroe Farms (my CSA) notified members that we could sign up to pick asparagus, I called immediately for a slot.

Asparagus picking is not like picking berries, cherries, apples or peaches. There are no leaves to speak of, no sturdy bushes or trees full of fruit to harvest. The field we were led to looked surprisingly empty, not to mention muddy, and I feared my kids would be disappointed over the seemingly slim pickings.

But I was wrong. What seemed to be occasional stalks sticking up in scraggly rows was really a cook’s dream. In less than 15 minutes we had walked the row, finding stalks that were thicker than a pencil and longer than our hand and snapping them off at the base. To our delight, we quickly filled a laundry basket with thin and thick spears. Per instructions, we even picked the uber-thick ones to clear the row; too fibrous to cook, my kids took them home and used them as swords and magic wands.

I’ve written about asparagus for 5280 before, so I knew that what we call asparagus is really the stem of a plant. If left unpicked it will “fern out,” developing branches and a canopy of leaves. This is why you should look for asparagus with tight tips; open or loose tips are a sign that this process is starting to take place, and that the base of the spears is turning woody and tough.

In the end, we harvested 11 pounds of organic asparagus, which I stored upright in jars with an inch of water, and also with the stems wrapped in wet tea towels in plastic bags. After putting it all away, I couldn’t resist calling Whole Foods to gauge what my fridge full of organic asparagus was worth. At $5.99 a pound, we had picked nearly $70 of this precious spring vegetable.

Over the next few days I will share several asparagus recipes, the first of which is Pasta with Asparagus-Lemon Sauce, which I’ve been making every spring since I discovered it nine years ago in Gourmet.