Braised Swiss Chard with Currants and Feta

30 06 2009

IMG_0914Last weekend I picked up some beautiful Swiss chard with red, yellow and green stems. Come dinnertime, I flipped through a binder of recipes I’d torn out of magazines and newspapers, and hit on just the right dish: Braised Swiss Chard with Currants and Feta. I recall that it was a big hit with company when I served it a few years ago at … Christmas.

Yes, Christmas.

Swiss chard is one of those leafy greens you see so much of in the grocery store over the winter. It thrives in milder climates, but here in Denver none of it is local that time of year. Now, however, chard is in, and it is delicious in this recipe from the December 2006 issue of Gourmet. (Note that if you don’t have currants, you can substitute dried cranberries or tart cherries.)

Click here for the recipe for Braised Swiss Chard with Currants and Feta.





Risotto with English Peas and Parmesan

27 06 2009

IMG_0929Risotto was one of the casualties of the Atkins craze. When carbs were the enemy, rice dishes like this fell out of favor. And while food trends have since moved on, risotto has, for some reason, never fully recovered. That’s unfortunate, because this dish falls in the middle section of a Venn diagram where Comfort and Elegance overlap.

Now is a good time to reconsider risotto, because if you’re willing to stand and stir awhile, risotto is a great way to showcase English peas, those sweet, tender pearls just now coming into season.

P.S. If you don’t feel like standing and stirring but are lucky enough to have fresh English peas on hand, you could always eat them like Claudia Ferrell, co-owner of Berry Patch Farms, does: on the porch, shelling them as you eat, watching a storm blow in.

Risotto with English Peas and Parmesan

1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/2 cup white wine
4 to 5 cups low-sodium chicken broth, simmering on the stove
1 cup shelled English peas
1/2 cup grated Parmesan
A handful of parsley, chopped

Melt the butter and olive oil on medium heat, then add the onion and cook about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir for 1 minute. Then add the wine and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Add 2 cups of stock and cook over medium-high heat until the liquid has been absorbed, then add 1/2 cup of stock at time, stirring frequently. Let it bubble away before adding another 1/2 cup of stock, until only about 1 cup of stock remains. Then add the peas and the remaining stock and cook until the rice is done. Stir in parmesan, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with parsley before serving.





Strawberries with Balsamic

25 06 2009

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Like most commercial jellies and jams, fresh fruit desserts tend to be too sweet. Buy a pie at a restaurant and chances are it will be cloying. Even at home, when I cut the sugar in half, many pies and cobblers taste overly sweet. Which is why, after eating so many strawberry-centric desserts these past few days, I went in search of a berry dessert that would break this pattern.

I found it in Simply Sensational Desserts, by Francois Payard, a recipient of the prestigious James Beard “Pastry Chef of the Year” award and owner of New York’s famed Payard Patisserie. In it, there is no creme anglaise, no sweet tart dough, no whipped cream and hardly any sugar.

Instead, there are strawberries, two tablespoons of sugar and a smidgen of butter. Oh, and balsamic vinegar to “open your palate,” as it says in the recipe. If you’re concerned it’s too haute for the kiddos, it’s really not. My two-year-old ate more of out my bowl than I did, and my four-year-old finished his strawberries then tipped the bowl and drank the sauce.

Fricassee of Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar
from Simply Sensational Desserts by Francois Payard

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
2 pints ripe strawberries, washed, hulled and cut into quarters
1 tablespoon good-quality aged balsamic vinegar

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sugar and strawberries and cook, tossing the strawberries to coat them evenly, for about 1 minute. Add the balsamic vinegar and toss the strawberries until coated.
2. Spoon the strawberries into six shallow bowls and serve immediately.





Greens Envy

23 06 2009

IMG_0913Last winter I reconnected with an old friend. In the 20 years since we graduated from high school she’s decided that Local, Seasonal and Organic are important words in her vocabulary.

Now living in Houston (a much milder climate than here in Denver), she enjoyed a winter share that looked a bit different than mine. In February while I was making ravioli with butternut squash and potato-leek soup, she was cooking kale. I was green with envy.

But now our local spinach is here, and I’m making the best of it.

One spectacular recipe is Spinach with Chickpeas and Bacon. In many recipes, the chickpeas are cold and soft, tossed in a yummy dressing, to be sure, but still cold. In this recipe, however, you fry bacon until crisp, saute the chickpeas, then add in spinach and garlic. The result is a dish as addictive as potato chips — and for the same reason. They both have that irresistable combination of richness, salt and crunch.

Click here for the recipe for Spinach and Chickpeas with Bacon, from Gourmet (February 2000).





Fresh Strawberry Pie

20 06 2009

IMG_0912When it comes to birthdays, most of us eat cake. Sure, the kind varies — yellow with chocolate frosting, white cupcakes with sprinkles, even red velvet — but when it’s time to blow out the candles, you can bet we’re doing it over a cake.

Unless you’re my dad.

He favors fresh strawberry pie, and lucky for him, his birthday falls in berry season at the end of June. He was in town this week for ballet recitals, swim meets and the like, so I surprised him with an early birthday pie.

In a fresh berry pie, the filling is cooked over the stove then added to a pre-baked shell. The only tricky part is when you mix the crushed berries with sugar, cornstarch and lemon juice to make the glaze. Resist the temptation to put down the spoon and prep another dish; the glaze turns from cloudy to clear in an instant and you don’t want to miss it.

Fresh Strawberry Pie
Adapted from The Fannie Farmer Baking Book

5-6 cups strawberries, cleaned and hulled
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup sugar (more if the berries aren’t perfectly ripe)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 pre-baked 9-inch pie crust
Whipped cream

Slice half the berries and crush the rest, keeping the two piles separate. Put the crushed berries in a small pan and add the cornstarch, sugar and lemon juice. Stir over low heat until the mixture thickens and turns clear. Put it in a different bowl (off the heat) to cool. Gently stir in the sliced berries and spoon into the crust. When ready to serve, top each slice with whipped cream.





Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp

17 06 2009

IMG_0895Some people think I’m depriving myself by eating seasonally.

Yes, my consumption of leeks and butternut squash went up this winter as I chose those local veggies (from a storage share at my CSA) over crops like tomatoes and spinach that were grown somewhere else and shipped a long way. Did I miss out? No. I simply changed the way I planned menus — and discovered a lot of yummy soup recipes along the way.

When you eat seasonally, you experience cooking in an entirely different way. When something is in — as strawberries are now — they’re in in abundance, and you feel the freedom to experiment with new recipes. In my house, this meant trying something I’ve always enjoyed but had never made: strawberry-rhubarb crisp.

Both berries and rhubarb came from Berry Patch Farms in Brighton. We picked up the rhubarb before weighing and paying for our two flats of berries at the farm stand. If you’ve never cooked with rhubarb before, remember that the leaves are toxic so only prepare the reddish celery-like stalks. And like cranberries, rhubarb is very tart so it needs a good bit of sugar. Keep this in mind when reading recipes; I frequently cut the sugar by 1/3 or 1/2 when baking quick breads and the like, but don’t give in to this temptation when it comes to rhubarb.

Click here for the recipe for Rhubarb-Strawberry Crisp, written by Deborah Madison and published in Cooking Light.

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Strawberry Picking

14 06 2009

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Berry picking wasn’t originally on the schedule, not with two ballet recitals ahead of us and costumes to get ready. But there we were at 8:15 a.m., bouncing along in the first wagon of the day at Berry Patch Farms in Brighton. An email from owner Tim Ferrell had warned that the fields were likely to be picked out by 11. We didn’t want to miss it. Neither did several other members from my CSA, who were sharing the early wagon with us. “It’s a tradition,” one Monroe member from Denver told me. Every year she makes strawberry jam, strawberry ice cream and pie — and couldn’t let Monroe’s lost crop stand in her way.

Even with interruptions to watch toads hopping in the row, we quickly picked two overflowing flats, finding clusters of ripe berries hiding under every leaf. Back in the farmhouse they weighed in at 22 pounds, which, at $2.60 a pound wasn’t free (as it essentially would’ve been at our CSA), but it wasn’t nearly as pricey as organic berries at the store.

IMG_0827 By 9 a.m., lines were forming for the wagon but the atmosphere was still fun, not frantic. This meant that the owner had time to chat, answering my kids’ questions about how many animals they have and the location of their hives. Mr. Ferrell also told us he’s expanded the strawberry patch to meet demand. This fall, the farm will have seven pickable acres, with more on the way for next year.

On the trip home, we snacked on English peas picked an hour ago and purchased at the Berry Patch farmstand, and enjoyed the scent of ripe, warm berries. Given the rain, we quickly spread the 12 quarts of berries on cookie sheets and let them dry, then switched gears for ballet. Hours later, we popped three trays of berries in the freezer to save for next winter. Then we made strawberry shortcake, our favorite strawberry dessert, to cap off a great performance by our little ballerina.





Waiting for Strawberries

11 06 2009

After waiting all fall, winter and spring for the local strawberries to arrive, they’re finally here. But not here, as in, in my house. Or better yet, in the strawberry shortcake I’d been envisioning for dessert.

Friends and I were supposed to pick strawberries at Berry Patch Farms, but it appears that their traffic was so heavy that the fields will be shut down for the remainder of the week. I was disappointed at the news but not overly so, as I still had Plan B: picking next week at my CSA. Then I heard from a fellow member that the crop was damaged due to a big storm so picking will be curtailed until the remaining fruit ripens.

So, no berries. At least, no freshly picked ones. My 7-year-old, however, did her best to save the day. On the menu tonight (which she planned and cooked herself in honor of her grandparents’ arrival) was black bean soup, Caesar salad, sweet corn and white cake with whipped cream, strawberries and raspberries. The berries were not fresh — unless you count “freshly out of the freezer” as fresh. But at least they were local. We picked them together last year at Berry Patch Farms.





A Word About Arugula

9 06 2009

IMG_0700“So what’s the deal with arugula?”

An older gentleman came up to my booth at the Local Foods Festival and blurted out this question, as if it had been bottled up inside him for years and he’d been too embarrassed to ask. We talked about the green for a while — how it’s peppery and can be eaten by itself in salads or mixed with other greens to temper the flavor, and how it’s usually grown in a greenhouse early in the season before arriving from the fields in June. Then he paused and said, “Couldn’t you just eat spinach instead?”

I had to laugh. Sure you can eat spinach, and sometimes I do, especially if the only arugula is sealed up in plastic bags and you can’t take a bite to check the strength. (Once I made an arugula salad for company that was so strong, we had to toss it. And I don’t mean with dressing.) You can substitute spinach for arugula in nearly any recipe you find. But why would you, unless you have a hankering for sugary dressing and bacon bits? If you want a salad that’s an integral part of the meal, not just something served on the side, then take a chance on this more flavorful green.

I thought of this gentleman and his question when I bought a tangle of baby arugula at the farmers market. So far we’ve enjoyed it in salads (our favorite is Arugula with Hazelnuts and Cranberries) and wilted in a frittata. How good is the arugula? So good that on the one night I didn’t serve it with dinner, my husband looked so disappointed that we hastily put an arugula salad together. I can’t imagine missing spinach that much.





Arugula with Hazelnuts and Cranberries

9 06 2009

Wash a few handfuls of arugula per person. Dry well. Toss with extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice, then sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts, dried cranberries and slices of Parmigiano-Reggiano (you can substitute blue or goat cheese, if you prefer). Enjoy with a glass of pinot grigio and crusty bread.
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