Coleslaw, Three Ways

31 08 2009

slaw Our farm-share deliveries come on Wednesday, so we’re flush with veggies through the weekend. But by Monday, things are pretty picked over. We’ve already eaten or frozen most everything, so I’m left with the undesirables. Today, that means cabbage.

For some reason, cabbage seems like a cold-weather veggie to me, better suited to hearty preparations (like Cabbage with Brown Butter and Bread Crumbs) than late summer ones. Except for coleslaw, that is. And I’ve never been a fan of coleslaw.

But life is about turning lemons into lemonade. So today I’ve taken on the Coleslaw Challenge and have spent the afternoon experimenting with everything from caraway seeds to sesame oil. Given my bias against grated cabbage, I called on a dear friend and her daughter for feedback. We conducted a taste test in their kitchen, tweaking the recipes together until we hit upon the right balance of sweetness, acidity and crunch.

The three recipes — Asian Slaw, Coleslaw with Honey Vinaigrette, and Coleslaw with Mustard and Caraway — might forever change the way you see coleslaw. They did for me. And they did for my friend’s daughter, who liked the Asian Slaw so much she declared, “If Mommy made this, it would be a dessert!” Which I took to mean that it’s something she likes SO much, she’d want more of it, even when full of everything else.

P.S. One head of cabbage will be enough for all three versions.

Asian Slaw
12 ounces cabbage, grated, about 3 cups
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
1 carrot, grated
1-2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Chopped peanuts for garnish
Red bell pepper, small diced, if desired

Put grated cabbage in a medium-sized bowl. Whisk together olive oil, soy sauce, sesame oil and vinegar, then toss with cabbage. Mix in sesame seeds, carrot and cilantro to taste, then top with chopped peanuts. If desired, mix in red bell pepper for extra crunch and color.

Coleslaw with Honey Vinaigrette
8 ounces cabbage, grated, about 2 cups
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
4 teaspoons honey
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1-2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Put cabbage in a medium bowl. Whisk together oil, honey and vinegar and taste, adding more vinegar or honey, depending on how sweet or acidic you want it to be. Toss with cabbage, then stir in parsley.

Coleslaw with Mustard and Caraway
8 ounces cabbage, grated, about 2 cups
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon
1 teaspoon caraway seeds

Combine with the oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar and mustard. Taste and add additional tablespoon vinegar if desired. Pour over cabbage in a medium bowl, then toss with caraway seeds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.





Cucumber and Chickpea Salad

30 08 2009

lemon cuke A reader sent in a question about how to use lemon cucumbers. If you haven’t seen them before, they’re crisp, round and yellow, hence the name. You can use them in any recipe calling for cucumbers, but if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary, try this recipe for Chickpea Salad with Parsley, Lemon and Sun-Dried Tomatoes.

I discovered it years ago while part of a Gourmet Club. The name sounds snobby, but really it was nothing of the sort, just three couples who loved to cook (a rarity back then in New York) and who committed to cramming into each other’s small apartments once a month for good food. One time my friend Susie brought this dish — and it’s been a staple in my kitchen ever since.

While the ingredients sound common — after all, lemons, parsley and chickpeas are the backbone of so many different recipes — the dressing is anything but. Rather than whisking the olive oil and lemon juice together, you steep 1 tablespoon cumin seeds in 1/4 cup hot olive oil to draw out the flavor, then cool the fragrant oil before mixing it into the salad.

Incidentally, while I’m normally a fan of substitutions, resist the temptation to use fresh tomatoes in place of sun-dried. I admit I had this thought when I first read the recipe, but luckily my friend had the good sense to make it as written, and the intensity of the sun-dried tomatoes stands up to the deeply-flavored dressing in a way that fresh tomatoes would not.





Tomato and Greens Tart

27 08 2009

tomato greens tartIf you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book The Outliers, you’re familiar with his notion that practice — some 10,000 hours of it — makes perfect. Not exactly perfect, but a master.

The same is true in the kitchen.

Until you practice, you’re more likely to cook by the book, less likely to try a recipe without every last ingredient. But as you spend more time chopping onions and cracking eggs, you learn how to think on your feet, until you get to the point where you can combine recipes or even create your own.

I’m not sure I’ve hit the 10,000 hour mark. But I have spent a lot of time in the kitchen. So I didn’t flinch when I decided to make a Savory Swiss Chard Tart from Patricia Wells’ Bistro Cooking with nary a chard leaf in sight. Don’t have the main ingredient? Don’t worry, be happy.

In all honesty, the little girl who came over for a play date wasn’t happy. She probably wishes I’d chucked the tart idea when I didn’t have any chard. She ended up eating Cheerios. What can I say? I didn’t want to send her home hungry. But everyone else had seconds.

A word about the recipe. If you call it Tomato and Greens Tart, people will assume it’s spinach. (Hey, it tastes like chicken. Must be chicken!) Which it could be. Or Swiss chard, or kale or any other leafy green you have on hand. Beet greens worked well for me, but substitutions are always welcome.

Tomato and Greens Tart
Inspired by a recipe for Savory Swiss Chard Tart in Patricia Wells’ Bistro Cooking

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus a little more
Dijon mustard
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tomatoes, sliced
1 cup of cooked greens (beet greens, Swiss chard, spinach, etc.)
Salt and pepper
3 eggs
3/4 cup parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine flours and 1/4 tsp salt then stir in water and oil until dough comes together. Using your fingertips, press the dough into a 9 1/2 inch tart pan (if yours is a little bigger or smaller, adjust accordingly). Spread with a thin layer of Dijon mustard and set aside. In a medium saute pan, heat a splash of oil then add 1 clove of minced garlic. After 30 seconds, add the tomato slices and cook a minute or two. Remove from pan and spread in a single layer over the crust. Repeat with more oil and remaining garlic, then add greens and saute until hot. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk the eggs with the cheese, then stir in the greens. Pour egg mixture over the tomatoes and bake for 40 minutes, covering if the top gets too brown.





Chocolate Zucchini Cake

26 08 2009

Why is it that zucchini bread sounds normal, but zucchini cake does not? After all, they share many of the same ingredients, like flour, sugar, eggs and vanilla. I guess it’s proof that “normal” is simply what we’re used to.

For those of you who think zucchini doesn’t belong in cake, now is the time to step out of your comfort zone with this Chocolate Zucchini Cake from Bon Appetit (1995). A dear friend has made it several times for her four young children (many of whom are, to her distress, “selective” eaters), and this is what she had to say:

“I completely fooled Chris — my toughest critic on these things. He had NO idea that zucchini was involved. We actually ate it for breakfast since the ingredients aren’t far off a quick bread. Well, double the sugar, but I used half whole wheat flour which was completely disguised as well. I’m crediting the cocoa as a neutral ingredient. Is that fair?”

In my book that’s not only fair, it’s genius. Not to mention much healthier than Duncan Hines.





Peach Upside-Down Cake

25 08 2009

peach tatin
I promised to share my recipe for peach upside-down cake, but it slipped my mind amidst all the back-to-school hustle and bustle. Many thanks to readers for reminding me.

Peach Upside-Down Cake is a marvelous dish with a less-than-marvelous name. When I made it for my parents a few weeks ago, my dad raised his eyebrows when he walked through the kitchen and asked what I was making, then left without a word. Not until I brought it to the table and he saw the rings of caramelized peaches nestled in tender cake did he begin to change his mind.

That night, I got to thinking. Next time I serve this dessert, I’m not going to call it Peach Upside-Down Cake. Starting now, I christen it Peach Tatin, like the Tarte Tatin made in France with caramelized apples.

Peach Upside-Down Cake
Adapted from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 1/2 cup more
3/4 cup brown sugar
5-6 peaches, peeled and thickly sliced, quartered or halved (depending on your design preference)
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
3 eggs
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Whipping cream and honey, if desired

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Melt 3 tablespoons butter and brown sugar in a small non-stick pan over medium heat. Remove from heat and spoon into a deep-dish pie pan (I use a glazed Emile Henry deep-dish pie pan and have never had a problem with sticking). Starting on the outside, arrange peaches in a decorative pattern. Remember, this is what you’ll see when you flip over the cake. I like to fan them out between peach halves placed at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, with another half-peach in the middle; this will make more sense if you look at the picture.

Soften 1/2 cup butter and cream it with 3/4 cup granulated sugar. Add the extracts and eggs (one at a time) and beat well. In a separate bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and salt and add it to the wet ingredients. Mix well, then spoon over the peaches and bake until the cake is done.

After the cake has cooled enough to handle, put a serving plate over the top of the pan and flip the cake over. Take care because the pie pan will still be very hot. If desired, make some homemade whipped cream. As it starts to thicken, drizzle in honey to taste, then continue whipping. P.S. This cake doesn’t taste nearly as good the following day, but I suspect you won’t have any leftovers.





Warm Potato and Green Bean Salad

24 08 2009

For years we’ve been told to “eat a rainbow” of brightly-colored fruits and vegetables. Turns out, the compounds that give them their color — lycopene, beta carotene, etc. — are also good for us. This is great news for blueberries and spinach. Potatoes? Not so much.

Whether it’s because I’ve internalized the “rainbow” message or simply because I don’t like potatoes as much as green veggies, I find it a chore to use them up. Yes, I make mashed potatoes because the kids love them, and yes, I roast them with rosemary as an easy side for company. But I don’t exactly clap my hands when I discover them at the bottom of my farm-share bag every week.

So this weekend I went on the offensive. I thought of flavors I really like — mustard, parsley, vinegar — and put them with the spuds that I don’t really like. I also added a bed of green beans, partly because I have three pounds of beans sitting in my fridge and partly because of that green thing I mentioned a moment ago. Though I served it warm, the salad was just as good cold, so feel free to make it ahead.

Warm Potato and Green Bean Salad

1 1/4 pounds new potatoes, diced
2 big handfuls of green beans, trimmed
1/4 cup cider or red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon Dijon, preferably whole grain
1/2 green pepper, small diced
3 tablespoons parsley
Salt and pepper

Boil a large pot of salted water and cook the potatoes until just done. While the potatoes are cooking, add green beans to a second pot of boiling, salted water and cook until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes.

Make the vinaigrette by whisking the vinegar, olive oil and mustard and set aside. When the beans are done, drain them and spread them in the bottom of a glass serving bowl. When the potatoes are done, drain them and toss them immediately with the vinaigrette, then add the green pepper and parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste, then spoon over the green beans.
potato salad 2





SeedtoSpoon on BusinessWeek.com

21 08 2009

Hi, and thanks for visiting. My guess is that some of you have clicked over from Aaron Ricadela’s article — “Thanks to Blogs, A Bigger Menu for Food Criticism” — on BusinessWeek.com. If so, I hope you poke around a bit.

My blog is designed to help people eat locally and seasonally, so in addition to the tips on how to eat healthy and handle/store food that the reporter talked about, it includes:

- Seasonal recipes, searchable by season or in the search bar
- Ideas on what eating locally might mean for you; look under the How To Eat Local tab at the top for pointers.
- Resources for learning more about why it’s important to think differently about food; look under Cook’s Inspiration for a collection of excellent books and cookbooks.

Readers have begun sharing their own recipes for seasonal ingredients, so if you have a wonderful recipe for zucchini bread or pesto or anything else in season right now, please pass it along. This blog is also a forum for us to share the wealth of recipes hidden in our kitchens!

P.S. If you haven’t seen the BusinessWeek.com story yet, make sure you read all the way to the end to see what I said!





Corn Pie from Leftover Corn

21 08 2009

Once I tried a recipe for sweet corn with a cumin-lime rub. The rub was fragrant and delicious and I would’ve liked it on pork. But why would anyone put that strong of a flavor on sweet corn? I’ve tried a few such recipes over the years, but all have disappointed. It’s not that I don’t like sweet corn. It’s that I like it too much.

When local sweet corn is in, I savor it plain. No butter. No salt. Then I saw a recipe for Tomato and Corn Pie in the August issue of Gourmet. It caught my eye because I’d received 20 ears of corn in my farm share and had already eaten more than my share. I skimmed the recipe, waiting for the step where the corn’s delicate flavor would be overwhelmed by one ingredient or another. Instead, I saw a recipe that pairs the corn with the summertime flavors of tomatoes and basil, resulting in a delicious filling under a tender biscuit crust.

Before you make it, read the recipe carefully. I didn’t and almost missed the step about pureeing the corn in a food processor. I was tempted to skip the step for time’s sake, but I’m glad I didn’t. When you puree the corn, you release some of its milk, resulting in a creamier dish. Now when I have leftover ears of corn, I’ll use it as the foundation for a lovely main course. Kind of like having my cake and eating it, too.

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Raspberry Picking

18 08 2009

raspberry
School starts tomorrow, and my uber-social 2nd grader isn’t nervous a bit. But I am.

After all, since she won’t be able to drive for another 9 years, I’m the one responsible for tracking down her school supplies. With items like “disposable poncho” and “HP 4×6 photo paper” on the list, I think it’s quite possible I’ll forget something. I also think it’s possible that the scavenger hunt she did at camp — find something blue, find high-heeled shoes — was easier than this.

So rather than jump into a day of errands, we decided to spend the last day of summer doing one of our favorite things: picking berries. We arrived right when the farm opened and had the raspberry patch to ourselves while we filled two flats. Then we rode the wagon to the strawberry field for a few quarts of strawberries.

Sure, the afternoon was hectic as we crammed a day’s worth of errands into a sliver of time. All that back-and-forth in the car felt a lot like fall. But this morning it was still summer, when we had time to amble down a row of berry bushes hunting for the sweetest, ripest fruit; time to laugh at toads and bunnies and chickens; time to help a little sister pick berries just a bit out of reach; time to be together before we all get pulled in so many different ways.

P.S. The berries will be around from now until the first hard freeze so if you decide to go berry picking, stay long enough to fill up a flat. Raspberries and strawberries freeze well and are great partially thawed as dessert or, better yet, added to yogurt or ice cream for a milkshake or smoothie. To freeze them, spread them unwashed in a single layer on a cookie sheet and put them in the freezer until the berries are frozen solid. Then double bag them and put them in the freezer until needed. Wash before eating.





Caramelized Figs with Goat Cheese

16 08 2009

figOur three-week trip visiting both sets of grandparents is coming to a close, signaling the end of summer. By this time next week, my eldest will be a three-day veteran of 2nd grade.

No wonder that my kids were feeling glum as they went to bed. To chase away their gloomy thoughts, we shared one thing we wanted to do on our last day. My 2-year-old wanted to go fishing. Ditto for my 4-year-old. But my 7-year-old longed to visit a commercial flower farm, so this morning we oohed and aahed over hydrangeas and dahlias until the humidity got the better of us.

My choice? Visiting a farmers’ market in Culpeper, Virginia, a lovely little town with more fine restaurants than you’d expect in such a rural area. There amid the live music I found the usual late-summer suspects: sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes, patty pan squash, cucumbers. But I also found fresh figs, and knew that no matter what we had for dinner, they’d be on the table.

Hours later, after traipsing through those acres of flowers, doing laundry, packing, fishing, and fishing (again), I had little time for cooking. So I opted for this simple recipe of Caramelized Figs with Goat Cheese and Almonds, an elegant way to say goodbye to vacation.

Caramelized Figs with Goat Cheese and Almonds

Plan on 3-4 figs per person. Wash and slice fresh figs. Dip cut ends in sugar (coat them well) and place them in a non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat. Once the sugar is light brown, turn the figs over for another minute or so. Put figs on a plate with a morsel of goat cheese and a roasted, unsalted almond snuggled in each one, and drizzle the entire plate with honey. Serve immediately.
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