Not Your Mother’s Fruit Salad

15 08 2009

get-attachment-4.aspxPeaches are a summer fruit; apples are all about fall. Even Rob Stribling, a sixth generation farmer who owns the eponymous orchard, told me that apple time is his favorite of the year, because it’s cooler and things ramp up for a big harvest. He, too, associates apples with the months ahead.

So what’s up with these early apples? Turns out the Ginger Golds we picked are among the earliest to ripen here in Virginia. A light green apple with a crunchy texture that reminds me of an Asian pear, the Ginger Gold is great for eating as is. And because it’s slow to oxidize (unlike most other varieties), it won’t turn brown if you cut it ahead and add it to salads.

I’d read about this unusual trait, but as someone who’s written for newspapers and magazines for 20 years now, I know you can’t always believe everything you read. So I put it to the test when we had a good friend of my parents’ down from D.C. for dinner. She was bringing cookies from Hot Buns bakery for dessert, so to complement her baked goods I put together a fruit salad with our freshly picked peaches and apples, local raspberries from a farm down the way, plus strawberries and watermelon. The peaches I spritzed with lemon juice to retard browning, but the apples I left alone. They sat there on the plate for a good two hours until we were ready for them. And, just as promised, the apples were as crisp and white as the moment they’d been cut.

As for the fruit salad itself, I call it Not Your Mother’s Fruit Salad, but it might as well be Not Your Standard Fruit Salad or Not Your Potluck Fruit Salad or Definitely Not That Canned Thing, which always tastes like the oranges somebody mixed in to make it stretch. No, this fruit salad is served with each fruit in its own space so the assertive flavors don’t overwhelm the milder ones. Sometimes, space is a good thing. Which is why minivans and children go together better than kids and that economy sedan we rented last month.
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Picking Peaches

13 08 2009

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Years ago when I lived in Paris, I remember seeing an ad campaign for local produce. The campaign ran every summer, with billboards on street corners and posters on subway walls. “Eat it now or wait another year!” the slogan urged, with fanciful drawings of mouth-watering fruit.

Not wanting to wait until next year, I found an orchard near my parents’ house and rounded up the family — grandparents, 3 kiddos and all — to go picking early Sunday morning. We fought the heat and humidity on what was billed as the hottest day of the year and picked 4 pecks of peaches and 2 pecks of apples.

At home, I promptly took them out of the bags and laid them on the counter, removing ones that had bruised in transit (they’d go bad faster and cause others near them to spoil). Then we dug in, eating peaches with cereal, peaches with yogurt and granola, and peaches as snacks. I’ve also made peach pie and a peach upside-down cake (recipes to come later), with peach cobbler and peach-blueberry pie planned for the next two nights. Even so, we were hardly making a dent. My dad was sure they’d stay there until they went bad–after all, there were so many. But this afternoon, in about an hour, I added eight bags of peaches to the freezer. Peaches are my mom’s favorite fruit, so when she wants peach pie or cobbler this winter, she’ll be able to grab a bag of local peaches and enjoy a taste of summer.

For an illustrated version of these instructions, click on Freezing Peaches 101, or just read below.

How to Freeze Peaches
Wash peaches, scoring the bottom of each peach (not the stem end) with an X. Then slip them into boiling water for 10-20 seconds. When you can see the skin starting to flap, put them in an ice bath and add the next batch to the pot. Take eight to ten peaches at a time — enough for a pie or cobbler — and slip the skins off, slice them, and add a squirt of lemon juice. Scoop them into a Ziploc bag, squeeze out the air, drop the bag into a second Ziploc, and scribble the date. Last step: put them in the freezer and wait for winter.

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Caption: Rob Stribling of Stribling Orchard in Markham, Virginia. Mr. Stribling’s family has been growing fruit on this land since 1819.





Local Musings, plus a Great Green Bean Salad

8 08 2009

photoI’m on the road now, visiting my family in rural Virginia. Just how rural this is is up for debate. Yes, my parents’ small town is still small (thankfully), but the sprawl of D.C. has littered the roads from here to the beltway with more grocery stores than I can count, not to mention McDonald’s and Borders and Target. Fact is, the land is pretty out here and folks don’t mind spending hours in the car so they can live here but work there.

So we were in the car driving back from D.C. the other day when my dad surveyed the eight (or was it ten?) lanes of stop-and-go traffic and said, “I can’t imagine that when your kids are grown, this will be their dream.” With long-range predictions of gas prices topping out at $20 a gallon, something will have to give, and this life — the one followed by so many folks in the cars around us, with jobs in one place and houses in another — won’t be tenable. The price will simply be too high. I hope my kids have the sense to either live in the city or in the country, rather than trying to straddle two worlds.

I bring this up because “local” might be a buzzword in food circles these days, but its implications extend beyond eating what’s grown within a hundred miles. A recent article in The Atlantic pondered how energy might one day be locally generated, with wind or solar panels distributing power not across state lines but across a neighborhood, much as my neighbor in Denver does now.

Speaking of Denver, I heard that tomatoes aren’t in our farm-share bag this week. But in Virginia the growing season is a few weeks ahead, so they’re in. To celebrate our arrival, my parents picked up local tomatoes and green beans from a farm down the way. This is the dish we made, along with marinated pork tenderloin, roasted corn on the cob and crusty bread.

Tomato and Green Bean Salad
Adapted from EatingWell in Season: The Farmers’ Market Cookbook

1/4 cup cider vinegar
4 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon olive oil (not extra-virgin)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 15-ounce cans of white beans, or an equivalent amount of already-cooked dried beans
8 ounces green beans, trimmed
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved, plus a few beefsteaks or other full-size tomatoes
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, sliced
2 ounces of goat cheese, if desired

Whisk the vinegar, honey, oil and salt together. Drain the beans, then add them to the vinaigrette and let sit for at least an hour in a non-reactive bowl. Boil a pot of salted water and cook green beans about 5 minutes. Drain and dry and add to the marinated beans. Gently add sliced tomatoes and basil and season with salt and pepper. Top each portion with a few slices of goat cheese and serve on a platter lined with sliced tomatoes, if desired.





Zucchini Bread with Chocolate Chips

4 08 2009

Getting our family of five ready for vacation isn’t a quick proposition. But every summer we pack up and head to the East Coast to visit both sets of grandparents, so I know the drill. Our “To Do” list includes the Obvious (clothes, car seats, sunscreen, etc.), the Essential (snacks and diapers for the plane) and the Extras (washing the floors, changing sheets, and all those other domestic chores I’d rather not have to do when I return).

This year, on top of everything, I have a full bag of veggies from my CSA and little more than 12 hours to process them before the flight. The task has already lost Obvious status. But I don’t want it to slip to Extras and waste this food. So here I am late at night, surrounded by so many pots and pans you’d think it was Thanksgiving. What am I doing with it all?

1. Beets — boiled, quartered and frozen, for my favorite Beets with Goat Cheese, Walnuts and Honey
2. Beet Greens — chopped, boiled and frozen, for a frittata in place of spinach
3. Potatoes — chopped, boiled and frozen, for soup
4. Green beans — parboiled and frozen, for stir-fries or wilted green beans
5. Onions — diced and frozen
6. Zucchini — bread and muffins, frozen for snacks or breakfasts on the go
7. Garlic and extra squash — given to the neighbor who always takes us to the airport (I’m waving the white flag!)

Other than Zucchini Bread, I’m mostly prepping ingredients so I can pull them out of the freezer this winter rather than buy them from the store. Why not just freeze the zucchini, too?

Simple. Last summer I grated fresh zucchini and froze it, expecting to make loaves of bread all winter long. Instead, we ate up the few loaves of zucchini bread I’d taken the time to bake and freeze, and watched the bags of frozen grated zucchini sit there as the months passed. Finally, I threw them out when the new CSA started this summer.

So tonight as I contemplated those four giant green zucchini, I knew I had 2 choices: 1) bake bread; or 2) give them away. Knowing how happy my kiddos will be to see homemade muffins in their lunch boxes next month, I mustered the energy and baked. And baked. And baked. With four large zucchini, I had enough to make and freeze 3 loaves and 24 muffins.

Make that 22. I couldn’t resist eating a couple as I waited for the beans, beets and potatoes to cool before bagging and freezing them.

Zucchini Bread with Chocolate Chips

1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1 1/2 cups white flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 eggs
1/2 cup olive oil (or 1/4 cup oil and 1/4 cup applesauce)
1 cup sugar
2 cups shredded raw zucchini
Several large handfuls of chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour 2 loaf pans. Whisk together the wheat and white flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a large mixing bowl, gently beat the eggs, then stir in the milk, oil, sugar and zucchini. Add in the flour mixture and stir until combined, then stir in the chocolate chips. Pour into the pans and bake for 50-60 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

P.S. When I freeze a loaf, I let it cool completely then slice it, wrap it in aluminum foil, and place inside a large Ziploc bag in the freezer. That way I can pull out a few slices without having to thaw the entire loaf.





Pasta with Broccoli Sauce

2 08 2009

Some vegetables — kohlrabi, for example — practically shout “Eat me! I’m Local!” Broccoli, however, doesn’t fall into this camp. A nutritious, quick-cooking stand-by, broccoli could be the poster child for the busy family’s dinner.

Which is to say, you might find it hard to muster up the energy to do something different with it when you get broccoli at the market or in your farm share delivery. Rather than steaming or boiling it next time, why not turn it into the basis for a meal? This Pasta with Broccoli Sauce takes only a few minutes more to cook than what you’d be doing anyway, and instead of getting a ho-hum side dish, you end up with a surprisingly dressy main-course.

Pasta with Broccoli Sauce

Boil a few cups of salted water. Chop a large head of broccoli into bite-sized florets and thinly slice the stems. Set the florets aside, then add the stems to the boiling water (make sure broccoli is fully immersed) and cook until very tender. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water. Puree, then add a tablespoon or two of extra-virgin olive oil or a few tablespoons of butter and season with salt and pepper – you want the sauce to be rich and velvety.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil and start cooking eight ounces of pasta. When the pasta has 3 or 4 minutes left, add the florets and cook until both are just done. Drain the pasta and florets, then toss with the broccoli sauce and thin with a tablespoon or two of reserved cooking water, if necessary. Adjust seasonings and sprinkle with grated Parmesan.








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