Moroccan Stew

9 01 2010


The base layer of flavor comes from an exotic mirepoix of sauteed onions, carrots and celery with cinnamon, cumin, ginger and turmeric.

Years ago while working at a food and travel magazine in New York, I got a plum assignment: Morocco. To someone whose life consisted of trying to make the rent, I felt like I’d just picked the winning ticket.

As I researched the trip, I knew I would be charmed by the maze-like ancient city of Fes, the bright seaside town of Essaouira, and the bustling squares of Marrakesh. What I hadn’t counted on was how hard I would fall for the cuisine, the tagines and flaky bastilla, the rose water pastries and fragrant spices.

Back home I sought out recipes to recapture those flavors, and discovered this easy Vegetable Ragout from Bon Appetit. It starts with a classic mirepoix of sauteed onions, carrots and celery, then takes a sharp right turn from French cooking with the addition of cinnamon, ginger, turmeric and cumin. The stew also has chickpeas and potatoes for heft, plus tomatoes and zucchini for freshness. Serve it over rice to complete the protein. If you’re in a winter farm-share, an added benefit is that it uses up so many of those storage crops you’re getting each week.

Note that when I make it, I use 14-16 ounces of diced tomatoes (juice included and preferably not from a can — if you’re curious why, click here). I also bump up the cumin from 1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon; substitute 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon for the cinnamon stick; skip the saffron; and add 1/2 teaspoon salt. You can also add extra broth if you want more sauce.





Summer in January, a.k.a. Freezing 101

7 01 2010

January is a month of deprivation. Diets. Budgets. Resolutions. Sure, the holidays are full of excess and goodness knows we can’t live that way for 12 months, but honestly, why does January have to feel so grim?

One (sensible) way to fight back is by saying No! to winter and dishing up summer fare instead. For some, this might mean margaritas and burgers on the grill. For others, it might mean a peach pie made with peaches you picked and froze last summer. At my house, we’ve already cracked open one container of zucchini-basil soup and a bag of sweet corn to bring a little August into our lives.

As I’ve written elsewhere in this blog, two years ago my freezer contained little more than half-eaten gallons of ice cream and bananas I’d felt too guilty to throw away and hoped (in vain) I’d use for banana bread. Now it’s full of frozen fruits, vegetables, soups, pies and scores of other goodies I’ve learned to “put away” as part of my CSA. Even people who cook a lot find there’s often too much produce to eat each week.

If you’re where I was, thinking that freezing food is way too 1950s, think about this. Freezing is:
* a time-saver because the cooking is already done. All you need to do is thaw and reheat
* a way to support local farmers — buy more in season and freeze it
* a way to eat organic, local food.
* Sweet corn, peach pie, and raspberries in winter. Need I say more?

For tips on how to stock your freezer, check out The Big Chill, by CiCi Williamson and April Umminger from The Washington Post.





Meatballs with Spaghetti

5 01 2010

Last week, in the most unlikely of places, I dreamt of meatballs. Given that I was in Florida, you’d think my thoughts would’ve wandered to something more appropriate. Sangria, perhaps.

But no. Surrounded by sand and shells and sunshine, all I wanted was winter comfort food. All I wanted was meatballs.

The small island where we were staying has an Italian restaurant. But at dinner that night I turned them down, opting instead to make them from scratch at vacation’s end. Too many meatballs are dry, oversized spheres, like baseballs in disguise. I didn’t want to risk disappointment, especially not when the craving was so strong.

So yesterday, our first full day back in Denver, my oldest kiddo and I got to work. I made the red sauce; she, full of creative energy from watching episodes of The Next Food Network Star, tackled the meatballs. Elated to be working on her own, she measured and mixed and shaped, happily exclaiming at one point, “Mommy, this is the first time you’ve let me work with raw meat!” Having just celebrated her eighth birthday, she saw this as a badge of honor, a promotion to the next level of responsibility in the kitchen.

Next she browned them in batches in olive oil (another first), then covered them in red sauce to simmer until they were fork-tender and delicious. How good were they? So good that hours later, when my five-year-old was snuggled in bed telling me about the best part of his day, he said it was eating his sister’s meatballs. Next time, we’ll double the recipe.

Meatballs
Makes 12-16, depending on size
Adapted from The Fannie Farmer Cookbook

1 pound lean ground beef
1/2 cup bread crumbs
2 cloves garlic, minced
2-3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 egg, beaten
2-4 tablespoons olive oil
4-6 cups red sauce, preferably homemade

In a large bowl, mix the first eight ingredients (beef through egg) and shape them into small balls. In a saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat and add half the meatballs. Cook about 15 minutes, turning gently until brown on all sides. Remove to a plate, heat remaining oil if necessary, then continue with the second batch. Remove and wipe down the pan. Gently transfer all meatballs back to the pan and cover with 4 cups of red sauce. Cover and let simmer 45-60 minutes, adding more sauce if the pan looks dry. Serve with whole-wheat noodles, red sauce and plenty of parmesan.








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