Finally, a Healthy Drive-Thru

24 02 2010

Before I had kids, I didn’t understand the drive thru. Yes, I used it occasionally on road trips, but in day-to-day life, there was no appeal. What’s the big deal, I thought? Just park and go in.

Then I had kids and everything changed.

Laziness isn’t the issue. Getting out of the car is. Especially with a child who would rather play hide-and-seek behind the condiment counter than stand in line. Or with a child who, just minutes before, was screaming and arching her back to resist being buckled (in hopes of returning to the swings). No way am I going to unbuckle her! And what about all those times a child has fallen asleep in the car? Until now, I had to make do with an Americano from Starbucks.

Thankfully, now there’s a better option. I just read that Panera is opening a new location in Denver today with a drive-thru window. I did some checking, and it turns out that while this is the first in Colorado, there are 30 nationwide. Hats off to the person (a mom, perhaps?) who came up with this.

So now instead of caffeine with lots of calcium, I can order a bowl of the cumin-spiked black bean soup for me and, for the kiddos, a grilled cheese (with organic cheese, no less) on whole-grain bread and organic squeezable yogurt. Sure, it’s not something I’ll do every day, or even every week. But if I had a dollar for all the times these past eight years when I lamented the lack of healthy drive-thrus, I’d be — as the saying goes — rich.





Apple and Celery Root Salad

23 02 2010

We all know not to bring up politics or religion at the dinner table. But I had no idea how polarizing vegetables can be. Meat, yes. Milk, too, especially if you’re with a vegetarian or vegan. But vegetables?

I’ve certainly had discussions with folks that raised – shall we say — uncomfortable issues involving produce, such as the environmental costs of shipping a kiwi half-way around the world. But I’m not talking “eat local” here, or even “organic vs. conventional.”

I’m just talking celery root. A friend (and you know who you are!) confided that she even stopped reading my blog for awhile. She just couldn’t make it past my recent story on celery root. That’s a stronger reaction than I would’ve predicted for an ugly but mild-mannered root vegetable.

Which is why I was delighted to go to a friend’s house last week and find an Apple-and-Celery-Root Salad on the table. I wish I had a picture to show you how lovely this hairy vegetable can be when well prepared, but I don’t. While a food blogger can certainly take surreptitious pictures of dishes served at restaurants, it’s not exactly polite to pull out the iPhone while your friend pours the drinks! All I can say is that the salad looked better than many I’ve had off a menu, a tower of thick granny smith discs, green skin on for color, layered with pale celery root matchsticks.

Despite all the jokes about celery root (we even had a few at dinner that night), the vegetable is very gentle in flavor. What really made this dish was the dressing. With a drizzle of buttermilk, blue cheese and chives, the salad becomes an ode to that lovable pairing of apples and blue cheese, with celery root thrown in for good measure.





Blackened Green Beans

19 02 2010


Brussels sprouts are everywhere. In recent weeks I've had them roasted, boiled with butter, even tossed in a compound butter with anchovies. I love them but not everyone does, making them perfect for a restaurant (where you can choose your own side) but a bit risky to serve for company. This is especially true if some of your guests are kids, who are known to be even more sprout-averse than the average adult.

A much safer choice is green beans. Whether served cold and crisp in vinaigrette or tossed warm with blue cheese and walnuts, they can play up or down, casual or fancy. Unfortunately, frozen green beans are much less lovable than fresh. I learned this the hard way, when I pulled from the freezer one of the bags I'd blanched and frozen last summer. They were waterlogged and flabby, and my heart sank when I thought of the eight other bags remaining in the freezer from last year's CSA.

I couldn't just reheat and serve these floppy things. Crossing my fingers, I threw them in a very hot skillet with a few teaspoons of oil and seared them until blackened in places. As soon as they were done I sprinkled them with kosher salt and served them immediately. No one but me would've guessed their miraculous transformation.

Blackened Green Beans
Wash and trim 6-8 ounces of green beans. Blanch in boiling salted water until crisp-tender, then put in an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and dry well. Heat a large saute pan over high heat for a few minutes, then add 2-3 teaspoons of olive oil. When the oil is hot, carefully add the beans (if they’re wet, they’ll spatter) and cook, stirring, until blackened in spots. Toss with salt and serve immediately.





Roasted Almonds, Local Cheese & Wine

16 02 2010

If you like to eat locally and seasonally, you’re probably going a little stir crazy at this point in the winter. Unless, of course, you live in Florida, California or Texas and have access to fresh greens and other non-storage crops. In that case, count yourself lucky — and don’t rub it in!

The rest of us envy you, and are making due with things like leeks, carrots, potatoes, onions and squash, all of which were grown last season and put in storage for the winter. I’m part of a winter CSA and thankful to get these vegetables from a local farmer, but still, I’m looking forward to spring.

In the meantime, I’m eating locally in other ways. Like last week, when we put together the kind of picnic we would take to an outdoor concert, only we were at the kitchen table instead. Some of the ingredients came from far away, like the Maille cornichons from France and the Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. But others were local, like the seeded baguette from Udi’s, which we topped with MouCo ColoRouge cheese and ultra-thin granny smith apple slices drizzled with Colorado honey. While you may not be able to enjoy this exact cheese, chances are good you can find another delicious local cheese in your area. Not sure where to find one? Try a local specialty market, cheese shop or even Whole Foods.

The beauty of a picnic is you nibble on what you like, while your friends nibble on what they like. For me, that means mixed olives, good cheeses and nuts. Which is why the only dish I cooked — not even a “dish” really — was Roasted Almonds with Rosemary Fleur de Sel from Bon Appetit (December 2003). I started the almonds first, and by the time I’d washed the grapes, arranged the cheeses, spooned out the olives and mounded the shaved Black Forest ham, the nuts were done. If you decide to try this recipe, I suggest reducing the cooking time from 40 to 25 minutes. Also feel free to substitute the more readily available kosher salt for the fleur de sel, but use less than the recipe calls for. I started out with just 1/2 tsp, down from the 1 1/2 tsp stated in the recipe, and they did not seem undersalted.

Click here for the recipe for Roasted Almonds with Rosemary Fleur de Sel .





Today’s Tips: Kitchen Safety

13 02 2010

Several months ago, a SeedtoSpoon reader wondered if she should rinse raw chicken prior to cooking. I was taught to do so, and so was she. But we both wondered if we weren’t, in fact, spreading around possible contamination. I didn’t have a definitive answer for her, until now.

In characteristically exhaustive form, Cook’s Illustrated tackles this issue and many others in “Keeping a Cleaner, Safer Kitchen” in the February issue. Their advice? Don’t wash raw meat or poultry. The exception is when the meat has been brined, in which case it does need a bath. If you rinse, make sure to clean the sink and counter with hot soapy water. I use a paper towel to do this, so I can throw it away and prevent cross-contamination.

In addition, at least twice a month I disinfect my sponge — whether or not I’ve used it to clean up raw meat — by boiling it for 10 minutes. Cook’s Illustrated says 5 minutes is fine, but in Denver water boils at a lower temperature due to the altitude, so I add the extra minutes for good measure.

If you’re curious about the science behind this, here are two good links: the USDA’s sheet on High Altitude Cooking and Food Safety and High Altitude Cooking, with a helpful chart listing the boiling point of water at various altitudes.





Instant Banana Pudding

9 02 2010

What I’m writing about today is something for folks too young to diagram a sentence, drive a car, or cook over a double-boiler. It’s also for the grown-ups who hang out with them.

Last week I shared a recipe for blancmange, an eggless pudding thickened with cornstarch instead of the who-knows-what in boxed instant puddings. Here’s a pudding recipe that my kids like just as much, mostly because they make it all by themselves. Note that this is not something I would ever make for me. I think my kids know this, and that’s part of the appeal.

To start, grab a banana. Sorry that it requires a banana, since bananas don’t grow anyplace local and I’m usually an avid proponent of local food. This is one area where I make an exception, especially in winter when the fresh fruit isn’t local anyway. Let your little one peel it, then mash it in a bowl with a fork or a masher. Then give them a tablespoon and let them measure and stir in 3-4 tablespoons of applesauce (preferably unsweetened organic) and 1 or 2 tablespoons of organic vanilla yogurt. Plain works well, too; you can always add a drop of vanilla extract. I know a friend who makes a similar dessert with her kids, only she adds crushed graham crackers.

Remember this recipe/project A) on snow days when you don’t know how you’re going to get through the next few hours until dinner; B) you have extra bananas, but not enough for banana bread; or C) you want to see your children grin proudly as they devour their oh-so-healthy dessert.





Celery Root Gratin

6 02 2010

Celery root is one of those vegetables you can avoid your whole life without even trying. Its ugly exterior — all those brownish tendrils sticking out of the odd-shaped bulb — all but guarantees its placement in the back of the produce section. That is, if it’s there at all. I cooked happily for years before I brought celery root into my own kitchen, and then only because it was from my CSA and I didn’t want to waste it.

What we call celery root (or celeriac) is the root of a special variety of celery, so it’s not like farmers grow celery and then at the end of the season dig up the root. In taste, celery root is usually described as a cross between strong celery and parsley, but I’ve found our farm-share celeriac to be milder than regular celery, and thus a better choice for picky eaters. The texture is more like a flabby potato, so if you like celery but don’t like the strings, celery root might be a good vegetable for you to meet.

The first time I cooked it, I pureed it and added it to mashed potatoes. The celery root perked up the starch, but my kids objected to the intrusion, both in texture and flavor. I’ve also gently sauteed it with butter as a side dish, and the result was good but not worth repeating.

So I’ve continued to look for new preparations, and last week experimented with a Celery Root-Wild Rice Gratin. Normally, gratins have breadcrumbs on top but this one doesn’t. However, it does have a delicious white sauce to bind the ingredients together. Definitely a step up from the other recipes. A friend who came over for lunch the day after I made it liked the leftovers so much she’s already requested the recipe. My version is adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, by Deborah Madison.

Celery Root-Wild Rice Gratin

3 cups cooked wild rice, or brown and wild rice mix
1 small leek, washed well and sliced into very thin rings
4 T butter, divided
2 T white flour
1 1/2 cups whole or 2 % milk, heated in the microwave or over the stove until hot
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
1 celery root, washed, peeled and grated
1 lemon, juiced
3 T chopped parsley
3/4 cup grated Swiss cheese
1/4 cup parmesan

First, cook the rice according to package directions and set aside. (I like to make extra so I have leftovers for fried rice or salads later in the week.)

Next, make the white sauce. Melt 3 T butter and cook leeks for a few minutes over low heat, then add flour and cook, stirring, for two minutes. Add the hot milk and whisk out any lumps. Keep stirring and cook over low heat until thick, about 20 minutes. Add nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a round or oval baking dish. Melt 1 T butter over medium and add garlic. Cook for 30 seconds, then add grated celery root, half the lemon juice and parsley. Continue cooking until tender, about 7-10 minutes. In a large bowl, mix celery root, rice, white sauce, Swiss cheese and parmesan. Taste and add remaining lemon juice if desired, plus salt and pepper and additional nutmeg if necessary. Spoon into prepared dish and bake about 25 minutes.





Kids in the Kitchen: Soup

4 02 2010

The more kids help in the kitchen, the more likely they are to eat well. Vegetables won’t seem so weird once they’ve been selected, scrubbed and nibbled. Flavors won’t seem so foreign if they’ve been sampled far from the high-stakes dinner table. When kids are allowed to help, meals stop being cause for suspicion and turn into an object of pride. (As in, “Look what I made, Mommy!”)

Still, it’s hard to let kids help. Flour ends up on the floor. Eggshells wind up in the batter. When we do let them sit on the counter, we often give them bit parts like dumping in the sugar. But last night, my kids and I reversed roles. They were in charge and I helped. My five-year-old declared the dinner that followed to be “the best dinner ever, by a million, trillion, billion!”

What was the object of such raves? Nothing other than — get this — stone soup.

If you’re a teacher, librarian or parent of young kids, you might know Marcia Brown’s Stone Soup about three soldiers and the war-weary French peasants who are reluctant to share their food. One by one, the villagers hide their goods and then lie to the hungry soldiers, telling them they have nothing to eat. So the soldiers offer to make stone soup, and command a kettle to be filled with water and a few stones. If only there were some carrots, they say, then this good soup would be even better. Mysteriously, one villager finds a few carrots. Then another finds cabbage, then potatoes, beef and barley, until the soup is fit for a king. Soldiers and villagers end up feasting together well into the night, a classic case of generosity, of something from nothing.

My son loves this story. So when he discovered a turnip and two carrots we’d overlooked in our tiny garden, he excitedly asked if we could make stone soup. Why not? The littlest one scrubbed potatoes. The middle one cut them with a butter knife. The oldest grabbed the peeler and the sharper knife.


My five-year-old, hard at work scrubbing the stone.

The pot eventually got so full it was more like thick stew than soup, but the kids didn’t notice. They were too proud of their new scrubbing, peeling and chopping skills to care that the potatoes were overcooked, that the broth was under salted. I didn’t care, either. All I saw were their huge smiles and their pride at being the Big Kids Who Cooked Dinner for Mommy.

Stone Soup

First, find a smooth stone and wash it well. We let ours boil for 15 minutes, too, just to make sure it was clean. Put at least 32 ounces of chicken broth in a saucepan, and add the stone. Then, depending on their age, let your children wash, peel and cut a variety of vegetables and add them to the pot. An onion, carrots and potatoes make a good base. The rest is up to you: turnips, cabbage, spinach, zucchini, green beans, whatever you have. Cook until tender, season to taste, and add parmesan cheese at the table for extra flavor. You can make this project even more fun by letting kids choose their own Stone Soup vegetables at the grocery store.





Ravioli with Chicken, Walnuts and Butternut Squash

2 02 2010

Normally when I make dinner, I don’t think much about reception. I cook what is fresh and seasonal and healthy. I trust my kids will like it, or will like it enough to get through the meal without too much fuss.

But yesterday was a busy day. Errands. Flu shots. Ballet. I simply wasn’t in the mood for negotiations over how much more they needed to eat before getting dessert. So I took a moment to think about what everyone would like, and built a meal out of that.

I knew it had to have pasta, because that’s a crowd-pleaser for sure. Butter and parmesan, too. Chicken for protein, and a veggie or two from our farm share. That’s how I hit on Ravioli with Chicken, Walnuts and Butternut Squash. When we all finally assembled at the table, my youngest polished off her ravioli before the rest of us had even finished saying grace. My son had thirds. My oldest was already staking a claim to the leftovers for her lunch tomorrow. I’ll count that as victory. And I’ll leave the battles over celery root and mushrooms for another day.

Ravioli with Chicken, Walnuts and Butternut Squash
Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated The Best 30-Minute Recipe

2-4 chicken breasts, depending on how much chicken you want
Olive oil for spreading on chicken
Salt and pepper
1 butternut squash, peeled and small diced — you need about 4 cups
4 tablespoons butter, divided
1 leek, washed well and sliced into thin rings
18 ounces whole-wheat cheese ravioli
1/3 cup chopped walnuts, toasted for 5-10 minutes at 350
1/2 cup grated parmesan
Cream or Half & Half (optional)

Turn on the grill. Rub chicken with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and set aside while the grill heats up. In a large non-stick saute pan, melt 1 T butter over medium-high heat. Add butternut squash and cook without stirring for 5 minutes. Stir and cook another 5-7 minutes, or until squash is browned and tender. Remove from pan. Add in leeks and saute about 5 minutes, then add squash back in and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, boil 4 quarts of salted water and cook ravioli according to package directions. While pasta is cooking, put chicken on the grill and cook until done. Cut into bite-sized pieces. When noodles are tender, reserve 1/2 cup cooking water and drain. Add ravioli to the butternut squash, then add chicken, a tablespoon or two of the reserved cooking water, 3 tablespoons butter, parmesan, walnuts and a tablespoon or two of cream. Heat on low until the noodles are coated, and add more parmesan, cream and/or cooking water to taste. Sprinkle with more parmesan at the table.

Variations: Rather than adding the chicken to the ravioli, you can serve it as a side dish to the grilled chicken, or you can leave it out altogether for a vegetarian meal. You can also leave out the cream and just use the cooking water, or you can leave out the cooking water and just use the cream!








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