Grape Pie

26 09 2010

The family that lived in the house before us planted concord grapes, with dark purple skins, squishy green pulp, and an intense grape flavor associated more with Jolly Ranchers than fruit. Only problem is, the grapes are full of seeds. Eating them is tricky; imagine the seediest watermelon you’ve ever eaten, then shrink it to one-one thousandth the size, and you get the idea. For this reason, my three kids and I always monitor their growth, pick a few, then leave them to the squirrels.

But this morning, my 8-year-old and I woke up early, donned boots, and went out to harvest the grapes. I say this like we live on a farm, but really we own a tiny, urban lot in the heart of the city. The walk from house to back fence is barely 50 feet, but we might as well have been at a vineyard, so far away did we feel once our heads were tucked under leafy grapevines to search out the hidden fruit. We managed to fill the colander with eight cups, just what we needed for two grape pies, which are, as luck would have it, my husband’s childhood favorite.

This is not a fast recipe. Rather, this is a project, something to do with your kids or just by yourself simply because the end result is worth it. It’s like making applesauce. Yes, you could buy it at the store, but when you make it at home you get more than the food. You get the memories, too. Someday, I hope my kids are in Napa tasting wine or at a wedding at a vineyard and see the grapes hanging on the vines and remember the grape pies we made once a year when they were little. What follows is a photo journey through the steps.

After picking the grapes, we stemmed them and popped off the skins, a fun activity for all three kids. My aunt (who is visiting from Minnesota), was helping in the kitchen too, and when she tasted a grape she sighed, remembering the concord grapes from her own childhood on a farm in Ohio — and long-forgotten recipes that her mother used to make with them.

After separating the pulp from the skins, we cooked the pulp over low heat for 15 minutes to soften it up.

So far, the cooking project was just what we wanted. Then it came time to press the pulp through a fine strainer to remove the seeds. This step took what felt like forever, and more than once I felt myself getting impatient. (“Surely there’s a faster way to do this!” I kept thinking.) I had to force my mind to slow down, and I invited my son to leave his matchbox cars and help. It was while my kindergartener took a turn pressing the softened grapes with a big wooden spoon that he looked up at me and said, “Mommy, I LOVE this!” It was a moment I would’ve missed if I had succumbed to my normal mode of “get this done fast” and done it myself.

Next we combined the pulp, skins, lemon juice, orange zest, sugar and tapioca and let the filling sit for 15 minutes. Then I filled the waiting pie crusts and covered them with lattice tops. In the oven they went. To pass the time until the timer went off, my son rolled out the scraps of dough and sprinkled his “cookies” with cinnamon and sugar for a little treat. I could tell by his face that he liked these even more than Oreos. Don’t we always get more out of something when we work for it?

Right when the pies came out of the oven, we raced to a soccer game. By the time we got home, the pies were cool and ready to eat. Delicious!





Turnips with Greens and Apples

27 06 2010

Our farm share started this week and now summer feels like it’s here in earnest. Sorting through the bag of vegetables, talking about what’s there, figuring out how to store and use them — these have become as much a part of summer as watching my kids run through sprinklers or sell lemonade.

This week we received peas, turnips, butter lettuce and garlic. Believe it or not, my kids are most excited about the turnips, having grown fond of the turnip puree I make each summer. Today, however, I tried something new so I could use the greens at the same time. (Greens are perishable and after two days it was time to use them.)

The recipe I followed, Braised Turnip Greens with Turnips and Apples, ran in the last issue of Gourmet (November 2009). As written it serves 8, an indication of the issue’s Thanksgiving theme. I made a scaled-down version with just 8 ounces of greens, 1/2 pound of turnips, 1 apple and 2 cups of water, plus correspondingly smaller amounts of salt, butter and vinegar. I also skipped the ham hock and minced a few slices of Hormel’s preservative-free smoked deli ham instead.

Overall, it’s more of a dish for company than a family dinner, but we liked the pairing of turnips and apples as the latter’s sweetness brings out a rarely-seen side of turnip greens. Stay tuned for more turnip recipes!





Day before Thanksgiving

25 11 2009

The day before Thanksgiving finds me doing what you’re doing: cooking. I just finished a three-hour stint in the kitchen, preparing dishes that can be made a day ahead so I can cook less and play more tomorrow. Today is also my son’s 5th birthday, so in addition to orange-cranberry sauce, cornbread for stuffing and green beans, I made his favorite chocolate cake with vanilla buttercream. Somehow, pumpkin pie doesn’t cut it for a birthday dessert, even if the birthday falls just hours from Thanksgiving.

All my kids love to cook, but today it was the birthday boy who joined me at the stove. (The day hasn’t been all work. We took him out for sweet potato pancakes and then to see mummies and an Imax film at the Nature & Science museum, a dream outing for a little boy.) He and I started with the orange-cranberry sauce (see recipe below), admiring the bright red jewels and laughing as they popped in the simmering orange juice. “This is my favorite part of Thanksgiving,” he kept saying. I’m not sure if he meant the cranberries or cooking with me, but my guess is he meant a combination of the two.

With no one to pick up at school and grandparents in town to amuse his sisters, we had plenty of time to slow down and appreciate being together and really look at our ingredients. If you have kids around today and tomorrow, remember to bring them in there with you; there’s so much fun to be had with kids in the kitchen. Today we just enjoyed each other’s company and marveled at the rainbow before us. Red cranberries. Orange zest. Yellow cornbread. Green beans.

The orange-cranberry sauce, right after we dumped the cranberries into the pot.

Our nearly-finished product. The only steps that remain are to sample it when cool…


…and add orange zest to taste.


Two pans of cornbread, soon to be cornbread stuffing with sausage, rosemary and apples.


Green beans for tomorrow’s wok-seared green beans. This, along with our Spiced Pumpkin Soup, diversify the flavors at the upcoming feast.

Orange-Cranberry Sauce
2 oranges
½ to 1 cup sugar
12 ounces fresh cranberries

Zest one orange and set aside. Juice both oranges, and pour juice into a one-cup measuring cup. If you don’t have enough, top with water until you have 1 cup. Put juice and sugar in a medium pot and bring to a boil. (Use the smaller amount for a tart sauce and the greater amount for a sweet, i.e. kid-pleasing one.) Add cranberries and bring to another boil, then let simmer for 8-10 minutes or until berries have popped. Remove from heat and let cool. Add orange zest to taste and refrigerate.





Spicy Pumpkin Soup

23 11 2009

At Thanksgiving, cooks tend to fall into two camps: traditionalists and rogues. Not rogues as in “vagrants,” but as in mischievous types who break the rules. In my house, we’re mostly traditionalists, with a table anchored by a heritage, organic turkey; my dad’s mashed potatoes; my orange-cranberry sauce; and my great-grandmother’s baked apples. But every year I experiment with a few new recipes to prevent culinary boredom from setting in.

One new dish on my table this year will be spicy pumpkin soup. Actually, it’s a mix of pumpkin, acorn and delicata squash, but that’s way too long for a title. You can make it with just one of these, or with any combination of winter squash you might have on hand. I used these because they’re what I’ve received in the past few weeks from my farm share.

With a new recipe, it’s always best to take a trial run. That way if it’s horrible, it won’t ruin the Big Day. This is even more critical if you’re making up your own recipe. For tonight’s soup, I decided to combine a few different recipes. Part of the reason for this is that many soup recipes involving pumpkins or winter squash soup call for boiling stock, onions and flavorings with squash that’s been peeled, seeded and cut into 1- or 2-inch pieces. I don’t know about you, but that sounds like a recipe for cutting off a finger.

I opted to cook the pumpkin and squash like I always do, cut in half, scooped out, and placed upside down in an inch of water to roast at 400 degrees for 45-60 minutes. When it was very tender, I added it to a stockpot of chicken broth flavored with onions, garlic, ginger and curry powder. Then I pureed it and smoothed it out with some low-fat coconut milk. The result is a sure cure to the foodie doldrums on Thanksgiving day.

Kids in the Kitchen: If you’re not sure how the soup will go over with the half-pints, why not involve them in the process? The more invested they are, the more likely they are to take a bite. I showed my kids the three varieties we were using, and we talked about their hard shells. When they came out of the oven and had cooled down, we talked about how soft they’d gotten. Then I scooped out each variety on its own plate — pumpkin, acorn squash, delicata squash — and we did a taste test. One child preferred the acorn squash, another jumped up and down saying the delicata was better. My son deemed it so delicious, he kept scraping his spoon against the skin to glean more of the bright orange squash.

A study in orange: Our taste test of pumpkin, acorn squash and delicata

Spicy Pumpkin Soup
Adapted from How to Cook Everything Vegetarian by Mark Bittman

4 cups cooked pumpkin and/or winter squash
2-3 T olive oil
1 onion, diced
3 cloves minced garlic
1 T finely chopped ginger
1/2 T curry powder
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup low-fat coconut milk

As the pumpkin/squash is cooking (see above for roasting instructions), heat the oil over medium-high heat and saute onion about 7 minutes. Add in garlic, ginger and curry powder and stir well for 30 seconds. Pour in stock and let simmer for as long as you have, preferably 30 minutes or more to bring out the flavors. Stir in the cooked pumpkin and/or squash. Puree in a food processor, then add coconut milk and salt to taste.






Italian Sausage Soup with Tortellini

15 11 2009

kids clean carrots My kitchen burn-out has finally ended. Maybe it’s the snowy day that just begged for soup. Maybe it’s the fact that we’ve eaten up all the party leftovers. Maybe cooking is too much of a creative outlet for me to forsake it for too long. Whatever the reason, today was the day that I (finally!) reached for my wooden cutting board and favorite chef’s knife.

As if to prove how little cooking I’ve done this week, I had to start with a quick inventory of my produce bin. Carrots. Onions. Garlic. Potatoes. Acorn squash. Pretty much the entire contents of last week’s CSA delivery. I grabbed the first three ingredients and some Italian sausage, and began the soothing process of making a favorite at our house: Italian Sausage Soup with Tortellini.

This recipe came to me from a talented cook and mother of four, so you know it fits my criteria of being 1) healthy and yummy; 2) quick; and 3) kid-friendly. Sometimes I make it as written, with organic beef broth and red wine. Sometimes I make it with homemade chicken stock and white wine. Since I have red wine leftover from the party, today I made the former, although I have to say I’m partial to the chicken stock/white wine version, probably because the homemade chicken stock adds that sumptuous layer of flavor.

Besides being a one-pot meal, this soup is fantastic because it’s so quick to make. You start by browning the sausage, and by the time it’s done, you’ve chopped the onion, garlic, carrots and zucchini. Everything else gets simmered together, filling the house with warm, hearty smells. My kids joined in the fun (four-year-old on the left, scrubbing carrots; seven-year-old at right, peeling them), happy to be part of the action and sensing, perhaps, that the kitchen is the foundation of our family, and family meals are the foundation of our home.

Italian Sausage Soup with Tortellini

1 lb Italian sausage, not in casing
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, sliced
4 cups chicken stock (or organic beef broth)
1 cup water
3/4 cup white wine (or red, if using beef broth)
14 oz can diced organic tomatoes*
1 1/2 cups sliced carrots
1/2 tsp dried basil
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1 1/2 cups sliced zucchini or squash
14 oz cooked chickpeas
8 oz cheese tortellini
3 T chopped parsley

Brown sausage in a large dutch oven over medium heat. (Or use sausage in a casing and slice in half lengthwise, then in slices when cooked through). Reserving 1 T of fat in pan, remove sausage and drain on paper towels. Cook onions and garlic until tender. Add sausage, broth, water, wine, tomatoes, carrots, basil and oregano. Let boil, then simmer 15 minutes. Add zucchini and chickpeas simmer until vegetables are cooked. In a separate pot, cook tortellini and add it to the soup just before serving so the noodles don’t get mushy. Top with parsley and parmesan cheese when serving.

*As I’ve recently written, there’s concern over BPA levels in the lining of some canned foods such as tomatoes. Look for ones in glass jars or Pomi brand in cartons.

** Okay, it’s not technically a one-pot meal since I cooked the tortellini separately. When I’m so pressed for time that I don’t want even one more pot to wash, I’ve cooked the tortellini in the soup (as specified in the original recipe), but I find that cooking them separately is worth it, especially if I’m cooking the soup ahead.





Cheese Straws

12 11 2009

roses

You might have noticed that I’ve been a little delinquent lately in the writing department. But I have a good excuse.

Last week I threw a 40th birthday bash for my dear hubby, and it took all my energy (and then some!) to plan, shop and cook for the fete. After dragging my kiddos around to a string of grocery stores, party rental shops and markets, I admit I was tempted at certain points to order Chinese take-out instead. My 4-year-old spitting on his little sister in Party City was certainly a low point.

But in the end I made it, and served dinner to 26 of my husband’s closest friends. Truth be known, the only way I pulled it off with such elegance was with the help of some lovely and talented friends (you know who you are!) who kindly brought salads and side dishes, decorated cupcakes, arranged flowers and tied napkin rings. Many, many thanks to all of you!

In case you’re wondering, here’s the menu:

Champagne & Sparkling Cider
Prosciutto, fig and parmesan rolls
Cheese straws
Sugared pecans
Toasted almonds
Swiss cheese dip and crackers
Snap peas, grape tomatoes and carrot sticks

Carrot Soup with Ginger and Lemon
Indonesian Chicken
Couscous with Carrots, Lemon and Parsley
Green Vegetable Salad with Orange-Hazelnut Dressing
Mixed Green Salads

Chocolate cupcakes with white buttercream frosting
Vanilla-almond cupcakes with almond buttercream frosting
Chocolate Brownies with Peppermint Ganache and Crushed Peppermints
Assorted Chocolates
French-Press Coffee

If you’ve been reading the blog, you’ll recognize several of these recipes, including the fabulous Carrot Soup with Ginger and Lemon, which I served in tea cups with a dollop of sour cream as an amuse-bouche. The Couscous with Carrots, Lemon and Parsley was made at the last minute, something I typically avoid at parties, if I can help it. But it worked beautifully, even for such a large group, which isn’t always easy with starches.

But the real winner of the night were the Cheese Straws. Indeed, several guests commented they could’ve happily sipped champagne and eaten cheese straws all night! Unfortunately, once the party started I was too busy to take pictures of the food, but I did manage to take a few shots before the guests arrived.

champagne

table 2

cupcakes for party

table 3





Quick Sesame Noodles

6 11 2009

When we lived in New York City, one of our favorite splurges was warm sesame noodles from our neighborhood Chinese restaurant. The plate arrived with a nest of white noodles and enough thick peanut sauce to cover a plate three times the size. We loved it and always spooned up the extra sauce before allowing the server to clear.

In the intervening years, I’ve grown to prefer more vegetables and more complexity to my sesame noodles, and have served the Szechuan Noodles from The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook at more parties than I can count. But her recipe calls for ingredients I don’t have on hand as much now as I used to. I guess having three kids changed the contents of my pantry! So I was delighted to flip through Parade inside our Sunday Denver Post and discover a recipe for Sesame Noodles by the marvelous Dorie Greenspan, a food writer I worked with years ago. Her recipe is heavy on veggies and sized for a family, plus it calls for ingredients I normally have around. Except for fresh ginger, that is. I admit I’ve made this dish without all the fresh ginger for a quick weeknight dinner and it was still good, though it is definitely better with the ginger.

This recipe is a good one for this season because it’s flavorful and satisfying, plus it helps me use up the carrots and peppers that are still coming in from my winter CSA. I’ve modified the original recipe to suit what I had on hand, including three pork chops left from dinner the night before. You could also use chicken breasts, as originally specified in the recipe, or make a fantastic vegetarian version.

Sesame Noodles with Pork
Adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s recipe in Parade (10-18-09)

6 T. peanut butter
5 T soy sauce
1 T sugar
1 T warm water
1 T dark sesame oil, plus more to drizzle over spaghetti
1 T rice vinegar
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup minced ginger
1/2 pound thin spaghetti
1/2 pound thin pork chops, cooked and sliced into thin, bite-sized strips
1-2 T olive oil
2 large carrots, julienned
1/2 yellow pepper, julienned
1/2 red pepper, julienned
1-2 T cilantro, chopped
Chopped peanuts for garnish, if desired

Put the water on to boil for the noodles. Cook the spaghetti and drain, then drizzle with a little dark sesame oil and set aside. Meanwhile, make the sauce by combining the peanut butter, soy sauce, sugar, water, sesame oil, rice vinegar, ginger and garlic in a blender. In a saute pan, heat oil and add pork chops, cooking over high heat until hot and slightly browned. Combine noodles with the sauce, pork, carrots, peppers and cilantro. Pass peanuts at the table, if desired.





BPA in Some Canned Foods

5 11 2009

Props once again to Annie for expanding our debate on the topic of food storage and safe plastics. In a comment she wrote last week, she quoted an article on the potential for BPA contamination in canned tomatoes. I found a link to the story so we can read it and continue the discussion. The article is called “7 Foods that Should Never Cross Your Lips,” by Anne Underwood in Prevention.

I am sad to learn of this now, because the wet summer here in Colorado meant a light tomato crop. Whereas last year I picked, sauced and froze some 60 pounds of tomatoes, this year the CSA wasn’t open for tomato picking. I never got around to buying them elsewhere, and now I’m stuck contemplating what to do with the cans of organic diced tomatoes that are sitting in my pantry.

I’m inclined to throw them out. If I don’t feel they’re safe for my family to eat, I don’t feel good about donating them to a food bank. But maybe someone who’s hungry might make a different choice. What do you think?





More on Plastics

2 11 2009

If you’ve been reading the blog lately, you’ll know that we’ve been having an ongoing discussion about plastics and safe food storage. Several people have asked me for more information on the issue, so here’s a link to a “Smart Plastics Guide” issued by the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy.

On a side note, I looked into glass containers at Target the other day. I suppose they would be fine for occasional leftovers, but it would cost a fortune to buy them in the quantity I need to store food for the winter. (Gotta love the bounty of my summer CSA!) Besides, each container takes up so much more room than a form-fitting plastic bag, I fear my freezer would hold about a third of what it does now. Still, my ultimate concern is with reducing toxins…

P.S. I still need to look into the wax-lined boxes used by one reader’s grandmother. Thx for that tip, and I’ll share what I find.








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