Celery Root and Potatoes, aka Monster Mash

30 10 2009

celery root So there I am in music class with my 3-year-old daughter and 4-year-old son. All of us — many mommies, one dad, and lots of hyped up preschoolers — are told to hand in our resonator bells because it’s time to dance. The teacher puts on “Monster Mash,” and as we get up to twirl our kiddos, I can’t help but crack up.

Not just because the kids are so darn cute at this age, but because I can’t stop laughing at my own inside joke — the one about the celery root-potato puree I’d made for dinner the night before. If only I would’ve called it Monster Mash, then maybe my little people would’ve been more interested!

If you haven’t seen celery root (also known as celeriac) before, you might not get the joke. Celery root does resemble a monster, all knobby and brown and hairy. I would’ve never thought to eat it, if someone before me hadn’t told me it was edible. And delicious. For it is delicious, both raw and cooked, and it pairs particularly well with potatoes. This is a good thing, because potatoes are still in season and we have boxes of them downstairs that are waiting to be made into more things than mashed potatoes, breakfast burritos and soup.

Potato and Celery Root Puree
Like so many of my recipes, this is ingredient-driven rather than recipe-driven. By that I mean simply this: use what you have. I opted for 1 1/2 pounds of celeriac and 1 pound of potatoes, but you can easily switch the proportions.

1 pound potatoes, cut into small pieces
1 1/2 pounds celery root, trimmed of all woody and brown parts, and cut into thin 1- or 2-inch strips
6-8 tablespoons butter
At least 1/4 cup warm milk, preferably whole
Salt and pepper

Boil the potatoes until tender. While they’re cooking, cook the celery root in three tablespoons butter (or part butter, part olive oil) over medium heat until soft. When done, puree in a food processor and set aside. Drain the potatoes when tender, then add three tablespoons butter and about 1/4 cup warm milk and whip with an electric mixer (you can also use a potato masher but the texture isn’t as light). Correct texture by adding more milk, if necessary. Season with plenty of salt and pepper and add the remaining two tablespoons butter, if desired. Mix in celery root puree and serve hot.





Ziploc Safety?

27 10 2009

In my friend’s comment yesterday, she alluded to the troubling issue of plastics and food storage. I’m glad she did because this topic has been on my mind for awhile now.

Plastics are somewhat of a four-letter word in our house. As I’ve learned more about BPA and phthalates, I’ve switched from plastic food containers to (glass) Pyrex; discarded my old Nalgene; tossed out plastic sippy cups and replaced them with sturdy glasses from Crate & Barrel; and spent good money on cloth or wood toys to replace plastic ones I tucked away. I buy unbleached wax paper bags for school lunches and think twice before using the microwave. When I do use it, I never cover foods with plastic wrap.

But I’m stumped for a good replacement for zip-top plastic bags when it comes to freezing foods for the winter.

I do my best to minimize our exposure to any chemicals that might leach out of them upon heating (when transfer is the worst, I’m told) by trying to let foods cool before bagging them. Later, when I remove the bag from the freezer, I cut open the plastic bag and heat the contents on the stovetop, rather than placing the bag in hot water or in the microwave. Still, I worry about the plastic.

Anyone else concerned? Any thoughts on good substitutes for food storage?





Roasted Pepper Follow-Up

26 10 2009

Here’s a comment from a friend about roasting and freezing peppers. It’s so full of good info that I decided to reprint it here in a separate post.

“wanted to let you know a few of the things we do w/ roasted chiles. we lived in new mexico for five years and during that time developed a love affair w/ green chiles. in the fall we would have them roasted, but were advised NOT to peel them for storage. rather, roast, let sit in a bowl w/ a plate on the top (much easier and probably less toxic than a ziploc bag) and then freeze w/ peels on. the peels do two things: one, they insulate the pepper from freezer burn and, two they continue to impart that wonderful smoky flavor to the meat of the pepper while in the freezer. we just picked up 60 lbs of new mexico big jim’s for our winter eating!!!”

Thanks, Annie, for the advice!





How To Chop an Onion

24 10 2009

Last month I had the good fortune to attend a cooking school with acclaimed chef and author Sara Foster. We spent a day with her in the garden and in the kitchen, then on Day 2 we were teamed up and charged with cooking for her and the rest of our group. Our table (which I shared with my mom and two other lovely women) was responsible for Succotash Salad with Garden Tomatoes. Given the size of our party, we had to quadruple the recipe. That meant dicing four peppers, four onions, and eight tomatoes, plus slicing kernels off 8 ears of corn.

Much to everyone’s relief, I volunteered to tackle the onions. At home I always do it by hand, despite my Cuisinart. I love the rhythm of my knife against the wooden cutting board and find the whole process soothing in a “life-was-slower-then” kind of way. Besides, I think machines tend to be too rough on food.

Sara was giving instructions to another table, so I asked Joseph Lunn, chef de cuisine at Blackberry Farm, for advice on how to peel the onions. It always seems like the onion skins break apart and it takes me longer to peel the slippery onion than to chop it. Not only did Joseph show me how to peel them in a fraction of the time, he demonstrated a technique for dicing them that beats the one I learned in cooking school. Here’s what he did. (Thanks, Joseph!)

onion1
Wash the onion if the root end is dirty and put it on your cutting board.

onion2
Chop off both ends and discard.

onion3
Slice in half lengthwise and peel. You’ll probably lose the outer layer of onion, but Joseph said not to worry about. I love how fast this is!

onion4
Place half of the onion horizontally on the cutting board. Take your knife on the far side of the onion just up from the cutting surface and slice it nearly all the way through, making sure to leave the far end intact so the onion stays together. Move up the knife an eighth or quarter of an inch (depending on size dice you want) and make another slice, repeating until you’ve sliced all around the onion.

onion5
Now slice the onion vertically. The onion will naturally separate into even pieces.





Fresh Apple Cake

22 10 2009

apple on tree Long before I started eating local or seasonal or organic, I celebrated the arrival of fall with this recipe for Fresh Apple Cake. Apples are in stores year-round, but even then I knew that the only time to make this old-fashioned cake is when apples are just off the tree, like they are now.

Written in the style of an old recipe, with little more than an ingredient list, the recipe is indeed old. It comes from the grandmother of a dear friend of mine, Kari Jo, and the version I follow is on a recipe card in her lovely writing. (So lovely is her handwriting that she actually has a side business making note cards and such. Check out Citywrites for details.)

You’ll see that the recipe is higher in sugar and oil than many newer recipes. I use half white flour and half whole wheat flour and a bit less sugar than it calls for. I also use slightly less oil, but you have to be careful not to cut back too much, especially if you’re substituting whole wheat flour. The cake is tender and will crumble when you cut it, so serve it to good friends with ice cream or whipped cream on the side. Or make it just for you and enjoy it straight out of the pan!

Fresh Apple Cake

Mix together and let stand 5 minutes:
2 cups chopped, unpeeled apples
1 cup sugar

Add:
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup oil
1 tsp baking soda
1 egg, unbeaten
1 tsp vanilla
1/2 cups nuts or coconut, if desired

Mix well and bake in a greased, floured 8×8 pan at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.





Roasting and Using Hot Peppers

20 10 2009

peppers to roast'
In our neck of the woods, folks like it hot. Breakfast burritos come smothered with spicy green chile, jalapenos lace guacamole, and scrawled cardboard signs are as likely to advertise roasted Hatch chiles as garage sales. Good thing I grew up in Tulsa, so my palate can take the heat.

Not so my husband, who grew up in Maine and likes things more sweet than hot. And while my kids are adventurous eaters, at ages 3, 4 and 7, they’re not quite reaching for my green Tabasco. The upshot is that my repertoire of recipes for jalapenos, poblanos, and anaheims is slim, but not non-existent.

This recipe for Spicy Chicken with Poblano Peppers and Cheese, from Cooking Light (July 2005) is one to keep. An old friend from high school made it for us last winter with frozen poblanos from her farm share. Considering she’s been out of her kitchen due to house renovations for many weeks now, it’s time for me to repay her kindness!

The recipe calls for roasting peppers in the oven. Since I was roasting two bags full of peppers picked at our CSA Harvest Festival last month (they stored great in the fridge), I put mine on the grill and kept turning them until the skin was blistered all over. Then I put them in a Ziploc bag and let them steam for ten minutes, making the skins easier to remove. As a reminder, use gloves when removing seeds and membranes from hot peppers. As I wrote about a few weeks ago, I didn’t do this once and ended up with hands that burned for three hours.

roasted peppers
Peppers just off the grill.





Eat Locally this Winter

16 10 2009

Just because winter is coming doesn’t mean that you can’t eat locally. Winter might have reared its head, but the calendar still says fall. And that means that now is the time to fill your freezer with local produce. If you don’t get it now, you’ll regret it all the way until spring.

Some markets have already closed for the season, but chances are you’ll find one that stays open through the end of October (like Fort Collins), if not early November (Boulder). If you’re not in Colorado, check out LocalHarvest.org for a list of markets near you.

So as you walk past the vendors, think about things you could make now and freeze. Last weekend in Fort Collins, I saw a farmer who still had some sweet corn. That would be great to steam and cut off the cob, then freeze for later use in soups, cornbread or alone as a side dish. For details on how to do this, check out my previous post on Freezing Corn.

Potatoes, squash and onions will be out there, too. Why not buy them all and put them in a double batch of soup, one to eat now and one to freeze? Depending on what part of the country you’re in, you’ll find other goodies too, so do what you’re supposed to do at a farmers market and let your eyes (and tummy) be the guide. Then check back in to SeedtoSpoon.com for lots of recipes geared to late fall and early winter.





Don’t Miss This Gourmet

14 10 2009

Earlier this week I wrote about how I’ve torn recipes from old issues of Gourmet and put them in a 3-ring binder to make my own cookbook. Here’s another idea.

Anyone interested in eating seasonally — which I presume is mostly anyone reading this blog — should track down and save the entire September 2009 issue of Gourmet, with its special look at “Recipes from A to Z.” Next season when you come home from a farmers’ market full of tomatoes, eggplant and watermelon, you’ll be glad you did. Among the treasures are Ginger Garlic Green Beans, Sauteed Kale with Kohlrabi and Pear Butterscotch Pie.

P.S. How do you feel about Gourmet’s closing? What will you miss about it? And why do you think it went under?





Goodbye Gourmet

12 10 2009

True surprises are rare in our hyperlinked world, but last week’s announcement by Conde Nast that Gourmet would close certainly came as a shock. In Denver, we lived through last winter’s collapse of The Rocky Mountain News and have watched from afar as other titles have folded from coast to coast. But nothing has hit home quite as much as the closing of Gourmet, which to so many of us has meant the epitome of fine food, excellent writing, and style for decades. It is a title I read from cover to cover each month, and that my mother and grandmother read before me. But now, due to the economy and, I suppose, a trend in simpler cooking habits, it is a habit my children won’t share.

As others have noted, perhaps the magazine emphasized style a bit too much in recent years. I admit it’s been years since I followed an entire menu from Gourmet. When I cook, I tend to use simpler recipes from its Quick Kitchen section, or I open up cookbooks by Deborah Madison or Alice Waters. Given my three kiddos and other responsibilities, I know I don’t have the time to cook for the hours if not days that many of its feature recipes required. I guess I wasn’t alone in this.

Still, I mourn the loss. One woman who braved below-freezing temps to attend the Fort Collins Fall Festival yesterday told me how she’d sorted through some seven years of Gourmet and put favorite recipes in a 3-ring binder to create her own cookbook. I did a similar thing when I went to college two decades ago, pairing recipes from Gourmet and other sources with handwritten recipe cards from my mom. The binders (now there are four) are among the most frequently used in my kitchen.

Gourmet, like National Geographic, is a magazine to keep. There aren’t too many titles that inspire such dedication. Too bad it wasn’t enough to save the publication.





Potato and Green Bean Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette

8 10 2009

potato salad with mustard, parsley, green beans Friends tell me they’re scared to have me over for dinner. Something about my being a food writer tends to scare them off. If only they could’ve heard my seven-year-old tonight.

“Mommy,” she yelled from downstairs. “Are we having hotdogs and baked beans for dinner?” I’d been writing on the computer for awhile, and I guess she figured we’d be stuck with that since it was nearing 6 o’clock and the kitchen was dark. The fact that she knows about hotdogs and canned baked beans should put my friends at ease.

So yes, we did have hotdogs (all natural, I might add). But instead of serving a side dish from a can, I boiled some fingerling potatoes, tossed in a handful of green beans for the last few minutes, and quickly whisked Dijon, olive oil and balsamic. When the beans and potatoes were done, I drained them and tossed them with the vinaigrette, then added some baby spinach. By the time the ketchup, mustard and relish were on the table, the side dish was ready. Nothing fancy, certainly nothing to intimidate a friend, but way better than something out of a can.

Potato and Green Bean Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette
This recipe, like many others on my blog, is more technique than recipe. I didn’t weigh ingredients as I made it, and neither should you. Just use what you have, adding more or less depending on personal taste and what’s in your fridge and/or pantry. The quantities are simply estimates to get you started.

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds new potatoes or fingerlings, cut into quarters or bite-sized pieces
8 ounces green beans, cut in 1 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup course-ground Dijon mustard
1/8 cup olive oil
1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil
1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2-3 tablespoons parsley
Large handful of baby spinach
Salt and pepper

Boil the potatoes in salted water about 8 or 9 minutes, or until nearly done. Add the green beans and cook a few minutes more. Drain beans and potatoes. Whisk the mustard, olive oils and balsamic and gently toss with the vegetables, then add parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Add more balsamic if necessary, then mix in a large handful of baby spinach.








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