Sweet Potato Fries

1 05 2011

As a professional food writer and restaurant critic, I keep an eye on trends. For the past few years, one of them has been burgers. Convenience aside, I just don’t see the appeal. The sad truth is that most burger joints, even high end ones, simply don’t live up to the local and organic standards that many of us set for ourselves and for our families. Organic produce? Humanely raised beef? Reasonable amounts of sodium? No, no and no.

So when the kids wanted burgers for dinner yesterday, I knew where we were going before the words were out of their mouths. And we didn’t even have to click our heels three times to get there. There’s just no place like home when it comes to food that’s really treated with care.

For the patties themselves, I used high quality ground beef from a cow raised at the CSA that I belong to. Kosher salt, pepper and a little trick I learned from Bobby Flay about not smashing the meat when you shape the patty were all I needed to whip up some restaurant-caliber burgers.

But you can’t have burgers without fries, and I wasn’t about to give some spuds a double dip in the deep fryer. (Yes, a double dip. How else do you think restaurants can get them so crisp?). Instead, I made something far lower in fat and, with all those A and C vitamins, far healthier, too: sweet potato fries.

Sweet potato fries are simple to make. Just peel and cut the sweet potatoes into fry-sized slices. Toss them lightly in olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and put them on a parchment-lined baking sheet at 450 for 25-35 minutes, or until crisp. Like any fries, these are absolutely delish when they come out of the oven, but their appeal fades as they cool. So eat them fast. At my house you have to, or you risk not getting any!





Strawberry Mousse

28 04 2011

Spring is in full bloom and summer will be here before we know it. Now is the time to use up any fruits and vegetables you froze last summer so there’s room for this year’s goodies.

My kids love berries so about half my deep freezer was devoted to organic strawberries, blueberries and raspberries. We spent the winter enjoying them in homemade frozen yogurt, cakes and pies, but last night I decided to try something different: mousse.

This recipe is one of my childhood favorites, a specialty of my grandmother who spent many hours watching Julia Child and many more hours teaching me my way around the kitchen. Make it with fresh or frozen strawberries, but remember to buy organic because strawberries tend to soak up pesticide and you don’t want that with your dessert. To serve, spoon into espresso cups or small glass bowls; a small portion is all you need given all the cream.

Strawberry Mousse
10 ounces frozen strawberries or 1/2 pint fresh
3-ounce package strawberry gelatin
A few tablespoons sugar
1/2 pint heavy whipping cream

Clean the strawberries if using fresh, and crush them. Sweeten with a few tablespoons of sugar and set aside. If there’s any juice, drain it and pour it into a measuring cup. Fill with water to reach 3/4 cup. Pour liquid into a small pan and bring to a boil, then add gelatin, stirring to dissolve. Remove from heat and cool. Meanwhile, whip cream into stiff peaks. When gelatin mixture is cool, stir into strawberries, then fold in cream. Pour into a medium glass bowl and refrigerate for several hours.





Asparagus Soup

7 06 2010


Welcome back! I wish I had a fantastic story to explain why I took such a long break from blogging (my longest ever), but I don’t. The truth is much more mundane.

I. Ran. Out. Of. Time.

Life happens with three kids, a paying gig as restaurant critic for Denver Magazine, and a tummy bug that overstayed its welcome. But now things have settled down and I can share this recipe for Asparagus Soup. I meant to post it weeks ago after picking pounds of pounds of asparagus at my farm share. But better late than never. Besides, where you live, asparagus might still be rolling in. (I believe today is the last day for picking at my CSA.)

If you look up “asparagus soup” in an old cookbook, you’re sure to find a recipe calling for lots of cream. Cream soups, like cream sauces and desserts that got lit on fire, were all the rage. Now, not so much. This soup is much fresher and lighter than the old cream of asparagus soups of yore, because instead of 1 cup of cream I just finish the soup with a splash of dairy. And if you want to skip it altogether, you can, as long as you have extra broth on hand to thin the soup.

One last thought: Sometimes asparagus seems too expensive to serve to guests. One pound barely serves four adults as a side dish, but it provides a more than adequate foundation for soup. In other words, if you have to pay $5.99 at Whole Foods to buy a pound of organic asparagus, you might want to stretch it into this easy but impressive soup.

Asparagus Soup
Serves 4

1 pound asparagus
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped onion
1 tablespoon butter
Dash of cream

Wash asparagus and snap off woody ends. Trim into one-inch pieces, reserving tips. Cook stems in 5 quarts of boiling salted water until tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from water with slotted spoon, run under cold water and set aside. Cook tips in same water, about 4 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon, rinse under cold water, and coarsely chop. Transfer all but tips to a food processor and puree until smooth, adding cooking water as necessary.

Melt butter in a soup pot and add onions, cooking over medium low about five minutes. Add chicken stock and asparagus puree and cook several more minutes, adding salt and pepper to taste. Add chopped asparagus tips and finish with a few tablespoons of heavy cream. Serve with a sprinkling of parmesan and slices of crusty baguette.







New Report on ADHD and Pesticides

17 05 2010

When people find out what I do, they always ask why. Why buy organic? Why pay more for food? Why cook so much and shun the convenience of so many packaged foods?

The short answer is this: I switched to organic when my daughter was born eight years ago. No one could say for sure what level of contaminants was safe for her little body, so I decided to be safe and minimize her exposure. Now an alarming article in today’s paper supports my choice.

In “Research Links Pesticides with ADHD in Children“, Carla Johnson reports on a study in Pediatrics suggesting a link between high pesticide levels and ADHD in children. Pesticide levels can be measured in urine, and it seems that the higher the pesticide level, the higher the risk of having ADHD. Even children who don’t live on farms are exposed to pesticides from the foods they eat. Pesticide residue remains on fruits and vegetables even after they’re washed and peeled, and some produce is more contaminated than others. The good news is that after switching to organic, pesticide levels in urine drop to near zero, according to other studies.

Not sure what’s safe and what’s not? The Environmental Working Group puts out a list of the so-called Dirty Dozen, the 12 most contaminated foods. Click here for a link to a downloadable Shopper’s Guide of the Dirty Dozen and Clean 15. Whenever possible, if you want a fruit or vegetable on the “dirty” list, buy organic.

Please pass the word to friends — especially parents — who still need convincing why the cost of organics is worth it.





Asparagus: Picking and Pesto

14 05 2010

There’s a certain excitement that comes from eating seasonally. All that waiting for crops to come in, all that anticipation of new recipes to try. The buzz is even greater with a short-season crop like asparagus, which is in and out in the relative blink of an eye.

Even kids understand the excitement. This week my five-year-old and I went to our CSA to pick asparagus and on the row next to us we overheard another little boy exclaim, “Mommy, it’s just like Halloween!” In his mind, he was being given treats for free, only instead of wrapped candy bars from neighbors he was getting asparagus from the ground.

As my son and I braved blustery winds and 45-degree temps to bend and snap our own asparagus spears, I thought more about the little boy’s comment. Halloween is about the element of surprise, and so is picking vegetables. You don’t know what the crop is going to be like. You don’t know what the weather will be. You don’t know if you’ll get 5 pounds or 10. Such uncertainty adds to the fun. (That is, as long as you’re dressed for it. My three-year-old decided it was too cold and hopped back in the car with grandma.)

At home with pounds and pounds of freshly-picked asparagus, we tried a recipe for Asparagus Pesto from that day’s New York Times. I tossed the pungent sauce with leftover sauteed chicken and whole-wheat spaghetti and everyone loved it. I did make a few changes to the recipe, however. First, I cooked the tips separately and added them to the dish upon tossing for more color and pure asparagus flavor. I also substituted toasted walnuts for pine nuts and 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for regular (the recipe calls for 1/4 cup, which seems excessive). Third, I used 1/2 cup parmesan instead of 3/4 cup to help the sauce coat the noodles, plus a little more lemon juice. And if your kids are sensitive to garlic, use a small clove because this recipe, like any pesto, packs a garlic punch.





Personalities: Happy Heart Farm

10 05 2010

Community-supported agriculture isn’t just about produce. It’s about community, too. So I always love talking to the Colorado farmers who are bringing us the fruits and vegetables we’ve grown to love — before they get too busy in the fields to talk! For other profiles in this series, click “Personalities” under the “Categories” heading at right.

If you are lucky enough to live in Fort Collins and are able to become a member of Happy Heart Farm, you will be joining a strong community that goes back two decades. Owners Dennis and Bailey Stenson are credited with opening the first CSA in Colorado in 1990, long before movies like Food, Inc. and Michael Pollan’s books helped to popularize the movement.

Back in the late ‘80s, the Stensons had already been working at farmers markets for years when they decided to attend a conference in New Mexico on upcoming trends. Among the topics under discussion were co-housing and community supported agriculture. The latter resonated for many reasons. “To have the food presold was a huge thing,” recalls Bailey, who had young children at the time. She also appreciated “not having the stress of moving the food.”

Another aspect of the CSA model they particularly liked was the connection with members. Indeed, this connection remains as vital today as it was when they started. “We’ve chosen to stay a small farm instead of one with thousands of members because of it,” she explains. Members feel the connection, too: Happy Heart Farm has nearly 30 working members, one of the highest participation rates in the state. Last year, one member – a chef — even cooked meals. “To come up from the field and have food prepared for us was like a dream come true,” she said. The Stensons have also opened up their farm to apprentices and students in a commitment to sharing their knowledge and expanding their community.

The farm practices not just organic but biodynamic techniques, such as using homeopathic herb-based sprays for pest control and following the lunar and planetary calendars for planting and composting. For a member, a season at Happy Heart Farm typically starts in late May with spinach, cilantro, radishes and chives and ends in late October with herbs, squash, carrots, potatoes, cabbage and more. Along the way, members might receive anything from chard to Brussels sprouts, edamame to tomatoes. For a list of last year’s produce, broken out by week, click here .





Kid-Friendly Spinach Tart

8 05 2010

The preschool that my kids attend is outfitted with a miniature kitchen so they can learn “practical life.” My youngest spends the bulk of her time there, making lemonade and then cleaning her own cup, spooning her own yogurt for snack, and one on spectacular day, grating nutmeg. After all my years in the kitchen, I’d never seen a whole nutmeg until I saw her pick one up and begin to scrape it against the diminutive grater. All winter they’ve been asking to repeat this project at home. This week, I finally let them. I needed nutmeg for a spinach tart. I also needed to occupy them while I got the rest of dinner ready. Grating nutmeg happily solved both.

Parents might wonder about the safety of little hands using a box grater. I know I did. (And obviously trust your instinct with your own children – this is not Fisher Price, and accidents can happen.) I reminded them how to hold the nutmeg so their knuckles wouldn’t accidentally hit, told them to go slowly, and did a quick demo. If my son had been older, he would’ve rolled his eyes. Instead, he said “I knowww, mom. We do this at school,” in a voice much older than his five years. At school, they use a clean (i.e. never-painted-with) paintbrush and sweep the fragrant powder into a thimble-sized bowl. We scooped it into my measuring spoon and dumped it into the bowl, me delighting in the extra flavor the freshly-ground spice would impart, them in the pride at being allowed to help in such a grown-up way.

There are other ways for kids to help with this recipe. Washing spinach is always a favorite. They can crack eggs and measure cottage cheese and stir. After all this helping, they might be so invested in the recipe, they’ll actually eat the tart.

Speaking of which, I make this in spring and early summer with fresh spinach, and substitute beet greens in the fall and winter. This one was made with beet greens from a huge crop of beets I picked at last fall’s CSA harvest festival. I blanched and froze them in 10-ounce packages specifically for this recipe. I opted to use the whole leaf, stem and all, but if you’re serving it to friends or have picky kids, I’d suggest chopping off all but the green leaves. The stems, like the beet to which they used to be attached, turn everything they touch red.

Spinach Tart

1 9-inch pie shell, unbaked (I make one with 100% whole-wheat flour)
10 ounces of chopped cooked spinach or other greens (weight after cooking)
3 eggs, beaten
1 cup cottage cheese
1/2 cup grated parmesan
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1/16 tsp grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 425. Make pie crust using your favorite recipe, prick all over and bake for 12 minutes. Remove and set aside. Turn heat to 375. Cook spinach (or thaw a package of frozen) and press out all the water. Mix eggs, cheeses, buttermilk and spices. Add spinach and mix well. Pour into pie shell and bake 40 minutes or until filling is set.





Grape Tomato and Lemon Salad

3 05 2010

A few months ago I blogged about how my son was looking for “signs of spring.” I’ve got a new one to add his list: the opening of the Cherry Creek Fresh Market, one of the biggest farmers’ markets in Denver. While it was heavy on vendors and light on growers, it still lifted my spirits, reminding me of all the fresh produce to come.

How light on produce was it? So light that all I found were late summer goodies such as corn and tomatoes. The latter were from Arizona, but I bought them anyway. I couldn’t resist. My son pops them like candy and when we got home, so did I. There are some things I’ll buy at the store in the winter but a hard pink tomato isn’t one of them. These fresh tomatoes were a delight.

After setting some aside for school lunches, I took the rest and tried an unusual Tomato and Lemon Salad from Gourmet. You slice the tomatoes in half, then marinate them in lemon zest, extra virgin olive oil, lemon segments and sugar. The combination sounds odd until you remember two things: 1) tomatoes are technically a fruit; and 2) lemons + sugar = lemonade.

The salad comes together quickly and would pair well with a grilled fish such as halibut. To eat it as a stand-alone salad and not as a topping for protein, I would add feta and possibly a handful of chickpeas. Remember that the longer the tomatoes sit the mellower they get, so make it farther ahead than the 15 minutes specified in the recipe.

Click here for the recipe for Cherry Tomato and Lemon Salad.








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