More Thoughts on Pesto

24 09 2009

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In the previous post, I did what journalists are taught not to do. I “buried the lead,” which is reporter-speak for saying that I put the important stuff too far down.

And what was the important stuff? Namely that pesto can be used on more than pasta. I’m not sure why we Americans tend to limit it to linguini, capellini and the like, but really, pesto is a concentrated burst of summertime flavor that can be added to grilled fish, grilled chicken and even steak. As I wrote before, the thought of green pesto on steak might seem disconcerting, but it’s not too far from Argentinian chimichurri (click here for a good chimichurri recipe from Gourmet).

At my cooking school last week, Sara Foster also used pesto on slices of crusty bread, which were toasted and topped with heirloom tomato slices and mozzarella cheese, a great appetizer.

I’ve gotten a few questions about why my pesto recipe doesn’t include parmesan or nuts. I do use parmesan — “parm-a-lot” was a nickname in my old cooking club because I used so much of it — but I wait to add it when I’m tossing the noodles and pesto before serving. If I’m using pesto more as a sauce for chicken or steak, I prefer the texture without cheese. Lastly, I’ve been told that pesto freezes better and lasts longer without the cheese, though I admit I haven’t done a taste test.

As for the omission of nuts — pine nuts are traditional, but you can use other kinds, too — I’ve found that I prefer the more intense flavor that comes from just the basil, garlic, salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil. Experiment and see what you like best. After all, that’s the beauty of cooking at home. You can make things just the way you like them.

P.S. Here’s the recipe again, in case you missed it the first time

Pesto
2 cups basil, washed and dried
2-4 cloves garlic
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Put all ingredients into a food processor and puree, adding more oil if necessary.





Pesto on More Than Pasta

22 09 2009

I love basil, but for years I couldn’t bring myself to eat pesto. I guess I overdid it back in the 90s. And who could blame me? I was living in New York, and everywhere I turned restaurants were serving what we laughingly referred to as “yuppie pasta.” Think noodles of all shapes, colors and sizes loaded with chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and pesto. Sometimes there were capers. Often there were olives. I don’t even want to think about all the other ingredients that enthusiastically but unwisely found their way into the bowl.

But back to pesto.

For most of the summer, I used up cups upon cups of basil in Creamy Basil and Zucchini Soup. Now my freezer is stocked with more of that soup than my family will probably want to eat. Faced with a box of basil my kids and I picked at my CSA’s Harvest Festival this weekend, I knew it was time to rethink my relationship with pesto.

basil 1

Since then I’ve tried several recipes, some with more oil and some with less; some with all basil and some with parsley; some with walnuts and some with pine nuts; some with 4 cloves of garlic instead of 2. This is my favorite version. If you’re freezing it, don’t add the parmesan cheese until you’re ready to use it. And put it in an ice-cube tray until frozen, then remove the frozen blocks and put them in a double Ziploc.

basil 2 use this

When you’re making pesto, don’t worry about exact proportions. If you have more basil, add a little more extra virgin olive oil. If you like yours thinner, add a lot more oil. If your kids hate garlic, use two cloves instead of four.

pesto3

In this batch, I added more oil. In the next batch, I opted for less oil. The former will be great over pasta. The latter — since it’s thicker — will be wonderful with grilled chicken. We ate it with steak for dinner last night as a stand-in for chimichurri, the tangy herb-based sauce used with beef in Argentina, and my son ran his finger over the bowl to scoop up every last bit.

Pesto
2 cups basil, washed and dried
2-4 cloves garlic
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

Put all ingredients into a food processor and puree. Many recipes call for parmesan cheese, but I prefer to add it to the dish rather than the sauce.





Don’t Throw Away Beet Greens

21 09 2009

beets on towel My kids love to pick things. Like leaves off our maple tree. Unripened acorn squash from our garden. And that other thing little kinds find so irresistible. Fortunately, yesterday was the annual Harvest Festival at my CSA and we were invited to the farm for a potluck, stick horse races, and plenty of opportunities to pick-your-own.

Despite the heat on a mid-September afternoon, my two-year-old happily tugged on carrot tops, my four-year-old skipped amidst the golden beets, and my seven-year-old pretended to put strawberries in her pint while secretly munching. So they were happy.

I, however, was not so happy to find a tremendous pile of beet greens discarded at the end of the row. The folks picking alongside me had obviously decided that the only things worth keeping were the brightly-colored roots. Too bad, because beet greens are not only edible but highly nutritious and versatile.

After the festival, I spent a few hours going through our own tangle of beet greens, and now they’re in my freezer in 1-cup and 10-ounce portions. The former I’ll use to brighten up frittatas for quick weeknight dinners come winter, and the latter in place of spinach in my friend Amy’s fabulous spinach tart.

To prep beet greens, just 1) cut them off the roots, leaving about an inch; 2) wash them well; 3) put them in a pot of boiling salted water for 4-5 minutes; 4) drain and rinse under cold water to cool; 5) gently squeeze out excess water and let them dry on paper towels (they’ll stain a tea towel); and 6) chop and measure out the amount you’ll use in your favorite spinach, kale or chard recipes.

beets in oven P.S. While you’re cooking the greens, you can also take care of the beets. I roasted mine in a 400-degree oven for 45 to 90 minutes, depending on size. You can either put foil directly on the cookie sheet or wrap beets individually in foil. The latter works well if you’re going to put them in the fridge for use another day.





Cooking with Sara Foster: Our Turn to Chop and Dice

15 09 2009

My cooking school with Sara Foster continued this morning with a hands-on session culminating with lunch. While Blackberry Farm has a tradition of bringing in top chefs from across the country for its Food & Wine programs, this is one of the first times that students have been invited to don aprons and closed-toe shoes (to prevent a knife accident!) and tackle the recipes ourselves.

Kudos to Blackberry Farm and to Sara for letting us be the guinea pigs.

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After we picked a work station, Sara told us what each group would be preparing. My table’s task was to make Succotash Salad with Garden Tomatoes, while other groups made grilled vegetables, a salad with roasted butternut squash and goat cheese, barbecued pork tenderloin and lemon pie with a divine gingersnap crust. Everything was quadrupled so we’d have enough to feed the group, meaning a mountain of onions to dice, tomatoes to chop and corn to slice off the cob.

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Always helpful and gracious, Sara walked from table to table, advising us to do our mise-en-place prior to starting and answering questions on everything from how to slice jalapenos to whether to add vinaigrette to a hot bean salad or to let it cool first.

Joseph Lenn, chef de cuisine of the Main House at Blackberry Farm, also spent the morning with us, and it was from him that I learned two marvelous, time-saving techniques for dicing onions and tomatoes. I promise to pass them along once I’m back at home and can illustrate them with step-by-step photos. (I couldn’t take them this morning given the amount of food we had to cook (large) and the time we had to cook it in (not so large). Many thanks to both Sara and Joseph for being so patient and kind with all of our questions.

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When all the basil had been mixed into the salad and the last tenderloin had been pulled from the grill, we settled down to enjoy the fruits of our morning, a fantastic buffet of dishes created from Sara Foster’s three cookbooks (The Foster’s Market Cookbook, Fresh Every Day and Sara Foster’s Casual Cooking).
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There, lingering over lemon pie and coffee, we shared stories of our homes, our kitchens, our families. And that’s the whole reason why I cook, because it brings people together for good food and just-as-good conversation.





Cooking with Sara Foster

14 09 2009

Apologies for not writing yesterday. After taking trains, planes and automobiles (literally), I find myself at Blackberry Farm in Tennessee for a cooking school with famed chef and cookbook author Sara Foster.

The program kicked off last night with a five-course dinner and wines by winemaker Pam Starr of California’s Crocker & Starr. But today we got down to business, first visiting the extensive gardens that supply Blackberry’s restaurants with fresh produce like the long beans and Kamado potatoes in last night’s dinner.
garden
Chef Sara Foster in the garden

Clad in overalls and checked shirt, John the head gardener humbly led us through his garden, sharing stories of seeds he’s collected and saved over the years (he’s part of the Seed Saver’s Exchange) and stopping every now and then for Sara to pick arugula, basil and peppers. Armed with baskets full of produce, our group headed to the demonstration kitchen. John presumably set off to sow turnips, collect sumac berries and do all the other items on the To-Do list posted in the shed.
gardenlist
Gardener John’s To-Do List

The rest of the morning we watched and listened and talked as Sara prepared the kind of simple, fresh, seasonal dishes that have become her hallmark: roasted red bell pepper and carrot soup; tomato-mozzarella cheese toasts; capellini with feta and mixed herbs; and individual peach-raspberry crostatas.
sara together
Sara with Joseph Lenn, Blackberry Farm’s chef de cuisine

As she moved from one dish to the next, she shared tips gleaned from nearly 30 years in the food business. One of my favorites was to throw all those leftover onion peels, carrot tops, pepper cores, tomato trimmings and garlic skins into their own pot of water and to let them simmer while you’re cooking. The result will be a vegetable broth you can either use or freeze for your next batch of soup. As a farm-share member, I wish I’d known that sooner! (Just avoid things like broccoli stems and eggplant peels, she advised, as they’ll make things bitter.)

sara in kitchen
Peeling skins off blackened red peppers for the soup

The beauty of her demonstration was that we got to eat everything we’d picked and watched her prepare, resulting in a lunch I’d put against any I’ve eaten, anywhere. Simple. Fresh. Delicious.

Stay tuned for more updates, as the cooking school continues with a hands-on session tomorrow.





How to Freeze Sweet Corn

12 09 2009

corn in sink Corn is so good to have around, it’s a shame it’s only in season once a year. Now we’re mostly eating it plain or with a little butter and salt, but in the winter I rely on it as a side dish. My kids love it, it’s quick to fix, and when paired with black beans it makes a complete protein.

For all these reasons, I purchased so many bags of frozen Cascadian Farm corn last winter, I should’ve bought stock. But this winter will be different. In between birthday parties and school picnics, I carved out two hours last weekend and went through a case of sweet corn, cooking it as though we were going to eat it, then slicing it off the cob, letting it cool completely, and freezing it in dinner-sized portions in double Ziplocs. Not exactly a sexy way to spend a weekend, but we’ll be glad in the end. And so will you, if you can still get your hands on some local, organic corn!





Melon and Cardamom

10 09 2009

melon salad
My kids wouldn’t mind if I served cantaloupe, muskmelon or honeydew every day. But I’m getting tired of slicing it up and eating it plain, so I dug into a favorite cookbook and discovered this unusual — and unusually refreshing — dessert. While cardamom, cilantro and melon might seem like a strange trio, this is the kind of recipe you’d love in a restaurant. So trust me on this and give it a try. The flavors come together in that sweet alchemy known as cooking.

Cantaloupe and Cardamom
From Farmer John’s Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables

1 medium cantaloupe (3-3/12 pounds), cut into 1-inch cubes, about 4 cups
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
freshly ground black pepper

Toss all the ingredients in a large bowl and refrigerate for at least one hour.





Peach Pie

9 09 2009

Last year, while interviewing an intriguing woman named Valerie Wilson, I discovered how easy it is to turn today’s peaches into tomorrow’s pie. By tomorrow’s, I mean December’s or January’s or February’s, when there are no local peaches to be had.

Wilson told me how she makes peach pie filling and freezes it inside the pie pan, so when she’s ready for a pie in the middle of winter, all she has to do is pop it in a crust and bake it. Sounds weird, I know. But really, it’s no different from eating a frozen Mrs. Smith’s pie. Except that the pie is homemade, organic and local!

peaches in pie
All you have to do is make a peach pie according to your favorite recipe, or follow my recipe for Homemade Peach Pie. But instead of putting the filling in a crust and into the oven, line a pie pan with parchment and pour in the filling. Place it, covered, in the freezer (but don’t let the covering touch the filling). When the pie is frozen, remove the disc of frozen filling from the pan, peel off the parchment and put the filling into a double Ziploc.

Whenever you want peach pie for dessert — or whenever you need a dessert and don’t have time to make one from scratch — just make or buy a crust and put it inside the same pie pan you froze the filling in. Pop in the frozen filling and add your top crust, then bake as usual.

In my experience, the pie will “weep” a bit, that is, it will let off moisture, so spoon the extra liquid off the top to prevent the crust from getting soggy. I find that I have to add 10-15 minutes to the baking time, but I suggest checking for doneness at the time recommended by your recipe as all ovens (and freezers) are different.





Pasta with Roasted Summer Vegetables

8 09 2009

Cooking is all about creativity. Some cooks are clever in how they disguise “healthy” foods, like the old hidden cauliflower puree trick. Others combine unusual ingredients in jarring but delightful ways, like black pepper with strawberries. My creativity kicks into full gear whenever I see eggplant.

I love eggplant. But my kids don’t. My husband even frowns a bit when he knows it’s on the menu. His mama raised him well, so he’ll eat it. But he’s not exactly excited. So when I saw two Japanese eggplants in my CSA delivery, I knew I’d need to pull out all the stops.

This being soccer night, I also knew that whatever I made, it would need to be ready in advance and quick to reheat. Then it hit me: Pasta with Roasted Summer Vegetables. At 1 o’clock, between games of Old Maid with my son, I cranked up the oven and loaded it with a tray of sliced eggplant, onions and squash. Then I cooked a box of whole wheat spaghetti and drizzled it with extra-virgin olive oil to prevent sticking. Into the fridge everything went. After practice, in less time than it took my daughter to take off her shin guards, dinner was ready. And they were so excited to see noodles, no one even noticed the eggplant.

Pasta with Roasted Summer Vegetables
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Slice 2 Japanese eggplants and sprinkle them with salt. Let them sit while you slice one onion and one or two yellow squash. If you’d like, squash can be sliced in half lengthwise, then cut into 1/4″ pieces. Dab eggplant with a towel to remove excess water, then toss vegetables together with just enough olive oil to coat lightly. Add salt and pepper and place on a foil-lined cookie sheet (for easy clean-up). Let roast for 30-40 minutes, or until vegetables are soft and browned in spots.

Boil a pot of water and cook as much whole wheat spaghetti or rotini as you need. I usually do the whole box and use just what I need for the recipe, reserving the rest for school lunches or after-school snacks. When the noodles are done, toss with extra virgin olive oil and the vegetables, then add kosher salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with a generous amount of parmesan and chopped basil before serving.

roasted vegges
Vegetables ready for the oven

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After roasting and oh so yummy





Zucchini Pie

5 09 2009

zucchini pie
Usually I think of zucchini as something to use up. There’s so much of it, after all, especially when you’re in a CSA. But this week I was disappointed to find that I didn’t have enough. Must be a first, right? I’d planned on making another batch of chocolate chip zucchini bread but also was hoping to make zucchini pie for dinner. Hmmm. Bread vs. Pie. Which would win?

In a down-to-the wire decision that surprised even myself, I ended up making zucchini pie. Hard to believe, I know, given how delicious the zucchini bread is, especially with all those chocolate chips. But this zucchini pie is fantastic, lighter somehow than a regular quiche and popping with flavor. It’s great for dinner with a salad and crusty bread.

Zucchini Pie
4 cups sliced zucchini
1 cup chopped onion
6 tablespoons butter
½ cup chopped parsley
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon dried basil or a handful of fresh basil, chopped
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups shredded mozzarella
2 teaspoons Dijon
Pie crust for 9” pan, unbaked

Preheat oven to 340. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan and add the zucchini and onions. Cook for about 10 minutes. Stir in the parsley, salt, pepper, basil and oregano. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, then stir in the cheese. Place pie crust in the pie pan and spread with Dijon. Then add the egg mixture to the zucchini and mix well. Fill pie and bake for about 45 minutes or until filling is set.








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