Turnips with Bread Crumbs and Parsley

29 06 2010

A reader asked for advice on how to use turnips. Here’s a recipe so good, it might convince the skeptics in your household to give turnips a chance.

The flavors are seductive yet simple — just toasted bread crumbs, butter, parsley and lemon. The recipe calls for fresh bread crumbs but who has time to make those? I substituted store-bought Progresso (something everyone should keep in the pantry) and the dish turned out fine. More than fine, actually. Click here for the recipe for Turnips with Bread Crumbs and Parsley.





Turnips with Greens and Apples

27 06 2010

Our farm share started this week and now summer feels like it’s here in earnest. Sorting through the bag of vegetables, talking about what’s there, figuring out how to store and use them — these have become as much a part of summer as watching my kids run through sprinklers or sell lemonade.

This week we received peas, turnips, butter lettuce and garlic. Believe it or not, my kids are most excited about the turnips, having grown fond of the turnip puree I make each summer. Today, however, I tried something new so I could use the greens at the same time. (Greens are perishable and after two days it was time to use them.)

The recipe I followed, Braised Turnip Greens with Turnips and Apples, ran in the last issue of Gourmet (November 2009). As written it serves 8, an indication of the issue’s Thanksgiving theme. I made a scaled-down version with just 8 ounces of greens, 1/2 pound of turnips, 1 apple and 2 cups of water, plus correspondingly smaller amounts of salt, butter and vinegar. I also skipped the ham hock and minced a few slices of Hormel’s preservative-free smoked deli ham instead.

Overall, it’s more of a dish for company than a family dinner, but we liked the pairing of turnips and apples as the latter’s sweetness brings out a rarely-seen side of turnip greens. Stay tuned for more turnip recipes!





Pasta with Pesto — Easier than Take-Out

21 06 2010

My oldest child is a swimmer, so once a week we stumble out of bed at 5:45 to get her to the pool before the meet. We don’t get home until early afternoon, by which time my other kids are hot and tired and crabby. Did I say the other kids? I mean me, too.

After a swim meet, cooking is always the last thing on my mind. But by the time we got home from last week’s meet and played for a while, it seemed like more work to buckle everyone in car seats and drive somewhere. You know you’re tired when take-out seems too hard.

But what about dinner? Luckily I remembered I still had some pesto, which I’d frozen last summer when basil was coming in by the bunch from our farm share. I quickly thawed some out, cooked some whole wheat rotini, and sliced up mozzarella and organic grape tomatoes. While I cleaned spinach for salad, I sent my five-year-old out to the patio for fresh basil (he’s the proud gardener of the family). Before we knew it, we had dinner. Easier than take-out. And healthier, too.

Pesto Recipe
I’ve followed many pesto recipes over the years and now I don’t use a recipe at all. Simply wash and dry the basil (a cup at least, if not two) and throw it in the food processor. Process until coarse, then add salt and a few tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Process until smooth, adding more oil if necessary. Fresh parsley makes a nice addition (up to 1/2 cup), as does lemon juice. I skip pine nuts entirely, but sometimes throw in a handful of walnuts.

If I know I’m making it for the freezer, I don’t even add the garlic or cheese. I just spoon it into an ice cube tray and put it in the freezer. Later, I pop the individual blocks into a Ziploc for use all year long. Upon serving, I add a few cloves of garlic and lots of parmesan, plus more oil if needed.





Strawberry Tart

19 06 2010

I lucked out after college and landed a job in Paris. New to the city and without many friends, I spent my weekends reading Ernest Hemingway and wandering from bakery to bakery, cafe to cafe. Not healthy, perhaps, but loads of fun when you’re 22.

As much as I loved the baguettes and chocolate croissants, my favorite was the glistening tarte aux fraises (strawberry tart). Always the prettiest item in a patisserie, the tarts are irresistible with their flaky crust, pastry cream and sweet berries shining under a gentle apricot glaze. Now three kids and many jobs later, I still commemorate those fun expat years with a strawberry tart made from the summer’s first berries.

If you’ve never made a tart before, don’t worry. In many respects they’re easier than pie, though you do have to buy a tart pan. Even the pastry cream is simple as long as you give it your undivided attention. And because the tart doesn’t spend nearly as long in the oven as a pie, the oven isn’t on as long — a beautiful thing if you live in an old house and don’t have air conditioning, like me!

Strawberry Tart

1 pie crust (use your favorite recipe)
10″ tart pan
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup whole milk, divided
1 egg
2 egg yolks
6 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
fresh organic strawberries, washed and dried well

Roll crust into 14″ circle and line a 10″ tart pan with it. Run rolling pin over the edges to cut excess dough. Prick well with a fork and bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes or until done. Remove from oven and set aside.

To make pastry cream, dissolve cornstarch in 1/4 cup of the milk in a medium bowl, then add yolks and egg. Meanwhile, put sugar and 3/4 cup milk in a small pan over high heat until hot. All at once, add the hot milk to the cornstarch mixture, then return it to the pan over medium-high heat. Stir constantly, scraping bottom of pan as it thickens. When the mixture is thick and bubbly, reduce heat to medium and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and add butter and vanilla. Put pastry cream into a metal mixing bowl and set in an ice bath to cool. If you like, press plastic wrap on the top of the pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming.

When the crust and pastry cream are completely cool, spoon cream into the crust and arrange berries on top. If you have time, brush with an apricot glaze. (For glaze, take 1/2 cup apricot jam and 1 1/2 tablespoons water. Combine the jam and water in a small, heavy pan and bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce until it coats the back of a spoon, then cool.)





Zucchini and Green Bean Soup

13 06 2010

It’s good to know I’m not the only one who likes soup, even in summer. I wasn’t sure if readers would be interested in soup recipes, but earlier this week I shared a recipe for asparagus soup and lots of people commented on it.

One reader asked if it would work with green beans. I’d never tried it before, but that same day a recipe appeared in the Denver Post for Zucchini and Green Bean Soup. In addition to the namesake vegetables, the soup has edamame and pesto for more protein and flavor.

At first pesto might seem like an odd addition, but basil is a perfect match for sauteed zucchini so adding it to soup isn’t such a stretch. I freeze pesto in cubes when I make it in bulk in August, then add it to minestrone in winter and pea soup in summer. In fact, I just made the pea soup last night for a friend and used up nearly the last of last season’s pesto! Now if only my baby basil plants outside would start to grow.





Better BBQ: Tandoori-Spiced Chicken

9 06 2010

‘Tis the season for outdoor entertaining, which usually involves something on the grill plus several fresh sides. To spice things up (literally), try swapping standard BBQ fare for something more fun like this Indian-inspired feast. We served it to friends last week and loved the change from corn, baked beans and burgers.

The main course, Tandoori-Spiced Chicken, comes together quickly. Early that morning I made a yogurt marinade that called for much of my spice cabinet: coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, cumin, cloves, paprika and pepper. I love this style of cooking and had all of these on hand, but if you don’t it pays to go shopping first. I cut the chicken into strips so more surface area would be exposed to the marinade, then stuck everything in the fridge until dinner. (In case you’re wondering, the thick marinade cooks off after a stint on the grill so you’re left with tender pieces of flavorful chicken, just like at your favorite Indian restaurant.)

For sides, we had salad, raita, spiced chickpeas and couscous, all of which were made in less than an hour that same morning. And isn’t that one of the reasons we love summer? It’s easy to have people over without spending all day in the kitchen.

Note: For the recipes for raita and spiced chickpeas, click here. Both are part of a larger recipe from Gourmet for curried chicken salad, which is layered with the raita and chickpeas and served in mason jars for a one-dish picnic. I made it once and my kids were tickled to eat dinner out of a jar, but if your kids don’t like one food touching another you’d probably want to serve it on a plate.





Asparagus Soup

7 06 2010


Welcome back! I wish I had a fantastic story to explain why I took such a long break from blogging (my longest ever), but I don’t. The truth is much more mundane.

I. Ran. Out. Of. Time.

Life happens with three kids, a paying gig as restaurant critic for Denver Magazine, and a tummy bug that overstayed its welcome. But now things have settled down and I can share this recipe for Asparagus Soup. I meant to post it weeks ago after picking pounds of pounds of asparagus at my farm share. But better late than never. Besides, where you live, asparagus might still be rolling in. (I believe today is the last day for picking at my CSA.)

If you look up “asparagus soup” in an old cookbook, you’re sure to find a recipe calling for lots of cream. Cream soups, like cream sauces and desserts that got lit on fire, were all the rage. Now, not so much. This soup is much fresher and lighter than the old cream of asparagus soups of yore, because instead of 1 cup of cream I just finish the soup with a splash of dairy. And if you want to skip it altogether, you can, as long as you have extra broth on hand to thin the soup.

One last thought: Sometimes asparagus seems too expensive to serve to guests. One pound barely serves four adults as a side dish, but it provides a more than adequate foundation for soup. In other words, if you have to pay $5.99 at Whole Foods to buy a pound of organic asparagus, you might want to stretch it into this easy but impressive soup.

Asparagus Soup
Serves 4

1 pound asparagus
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped onion
1 tablespoon butter
Dash of cream

Wash asparagus and snap off woody ends. Trim into one-inch pieces, reserving tips. Cook stems in 5 quarts of boiling salted water until tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from water with slotted spoon, run under cold water and set aside. Cook tips in same water, about 4 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon, rinse under cold water, and coarsely chop. Transfer all but tips to a food processor and puree until smooth, adding cooking water as necessary.

Melt butter in a soup pot and add onions, cooking over medium low about five minutes. Add chicken stock and asparagus puree and cook several more minutes, adding salt and pepper to taste. Add chopped asparagus tips and finish with a few tablespoons of heavy cream. Serve with a sprinkling of parmesan and slices of crusty baguette.






Asparagus: Picking and Pesto

14 05 2010

There’s a certain excitement that comes from eating seasonally. All that waiting for crops to come in, all that anticipation of new recipes to try. The buzz is even greater with a short-season crop like asparagus, which is in and out in the relative blink of an eye.

Even kids understand the excitement. This week my five-year-old and I went to our CSA to pick asparagus and on the row next to us we overheard another little boy exclaim, “Mommy, it’s just like Halloween!” In his mind, he was being given treats for free, only instead of wrapped candy bars from neighbors he was getting asparagus from the ground.

As my son and I braved blustery winds and 45-degree temps to bend and snap our own asparagus spears, I thought more about the little boy’s comment. Halloween is about the element of surprise, and so is picking vegetables. You don’t know what the crop is going to be like. You don’t know what the weather will be. You don’t know if you’ll get 5 pounds or 10. Such uncertainty adds to the fun. (That is, as long as you’re dressed for it. My three-year-old decided it was too cold and hopped back in the car with grandma.)

At home with pounds and pounds of freshly-picked asparagus, we tried a recipe for Asparagus Pesto from that day’s New York Times. I tossed the pungent sauce with leftover sauteed chicken and whole-wheat spaghetti and everyone loved it. I did make a few changes to the recipe, however. First, I cooked the tips separately and added them to the dish upon tossing for more color and pure asparagus flavor. I also substituted toasted walnuts for pine nuts and 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for regular (the recipe calls for 1/4 cup, which seems excessive). Third, I used 1/2 cup parmesan instead of 3/4 cup to help the sauce coat the noodles, plus a little more lemon juice. And if your kids are sensitive to garlic, use a small clove because this recipe, like any pesto, packs a garlic punch.





Kid-Friendly Spinach Tart

8 05 2010

The preschool that my kids attend is outfitted with a miniature kitchen so they can learn “practical life.” My youngest spends the bulk of her time there, making lemonade and then cleaning her own cup, spooning her own yogurt for snack, and one on spectacular day, grating nutmeg. After all my years in the kitchen, I’d never seen a whole nutmeg until I saw her pick one up and begin to scrape it against the diminutive grater. All winter they’ve been asking to repeat this project at home. This week, I finally let them. I needed nutmeg for a spinach tart. I also needed to occupy them while I got the rest of dinner ready. Grating nutmeg happily solved both.

Parents might wonder about the safety of little hands using a box grater. I know I did. (And obviously trust your instinct with your own children – this is not Fisher Price, and accidents can happen.) I reminded them how to hold the nutmeg so their knuckles wouldn’t accidentally hit, told them to go slowly, and did a quick demo. If my son had been older, he would’ve rolled his eyes. Instead, he said “I knowww, mom. We do this at school,” in a voice much older than his five years. At school, they use a clean (i.e. never-painted-with) paintbrush and sweep the fragrant powder into a thimble-sized bowl. We scooped it into my measuring spoon and dumped it into the bowl, me delighting in the extra flavor the freshly-ground spice would impart, them in the pride at being allowed to help in such a grown-up way.

There are other ways for kids to help with this recipe. Washing spinach is always a favorite. They can crack eggs and measure cottage cheese and stir. After all this helping, they might be so invested in the recipe, they’ll actually eat the tart.

Speaking of which, I make this in spring and early summer with fresh spinach, and substitute beet greens in the fall and winter. This one was made with beet greens from a huge crop of beets I picked at last fall’s CSA harvest festival. I blanched and froze them in 10-ounce packages specifically for this recipe. I opted to use the whole leaf, stem and all, but if you’re serving it to friends or have picky kids, I’d suggest chopping off all but the green leaves. The stems, like the beet to which they used to be attached, turn everything they touch red.

Spinach Tart

1 9-inch pie shell, unbaked (I make one with 100% whole-wheat flour)
10 ounces of chopped cooked spinach or other greens (weight after cooking)
3 eggs, beaten
1 cup cottage cheese
1/2 cup grated parmesan
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1/16 tsp grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 425. Make pie crust using your favorite recipe, prick all over and bake for 12 minutes. Remove and set aside. Turn heat to 375. Cook spinach (or thaw a package of frozen) and press out all the water. Mix eggs, cheeses, buttermilk and spices. Add spinach and mix well. Pour into pie shell and bake 40 minutes or until filling is set.








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