A Lesson from Asparagus

30 05 2009

As you know if you’ve been reading this blog, I visited our CSA recently for a pick-your-own asparagus harvest. In less than an hour, we picked more asparagus than I’ve probably purchased in my entire life. The past few weeks have been an exercise in preparing this vegetable so as not to bore my husband and kids.

But it’s been more than that. It’s been a reminder about the differences between what I had been doing — which was shopping for and cooking anything we had a taste for — and eating seasonally.

In springtimes past, I’d shop for a pound or two of asparagus with a specific recipe in mind. At $3.99 a pound (or more, depending on where I was shopping), it wasn’t something to buy lightly. But with 11 pounds to go through, I felt free to experiment with new recipes and techniques. I used it in pasta, roasted it with parmesan, ate it cold with white beans and feta, and doused it with soy sauce and dark sesame oil. In short, I felt the extravagance known to farmers but lost on those of us who have long relied on grocery stores for our food.

When you eat seasonally, you learn that when something is in, it’s really IN. And you do whatever you can to savor it, because it won’t be around again for another year.





Wanted: New Flavors for Asparagus

17 05 2009

IMG_0652 (2)For the past two weeks we’ve been eating our way through a laundry basket of asparagus (picked with the kids at our CSA) using mostly French techniques and preparations. So it was a breath of fresh air to apply other flavors to the remaining three pounds of organic spears left in the fridge.

A scan of several cookbooks revealed intriguing soups and souffles, but I knew as soon as I cracked open Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone that I’d uncovered a gem in Sesame Noodles with Asparagus Tips. With dark sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger and toasted sesame seeds, the dish is oddly refreshing and deeply flavorful. It’s easy to half or double, as the case may be, and it’s also impossibly quick to prepare, which I especially appreciated on this summery day as it allowed less time in the kitchen and more time to go around the block with little ones on training wheels. Note: the recipe calls for thin Chinese egg noodles, but I successfully substituted ramen noodles (without the flavor packet) since that’s what I had in the pantry.

Click here for the recipe for Sesame Noodles with Asparagus Tips.





Asparagus and White Bean Salad

11 05 2009

This recipe comes from Farmer John’s Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables, a wonderful resource from the folks at Angelic Organics, a CSA in Illinois.

A few remarks: The dressing is very light, so I usually add more lemon juice and mint. I also add in the whole can of beans, to avoid wasting the few that are left after measuring a cup. And depending on the audience, I substitute red peppers for the radishes; the peppers add the same pop of red, but they’re milder in taste and more of a crowd-pleaser.

Asparagus and White Bean Salad with Feta and Lemon Dressing
serves 4

1 pound asparagus, cut on an angle in 1-inch pieces (about 3 cups)
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tsp chopped fresh mint
1/2 tsp freshly grated lemon zest
1/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 cup cooked or canned white beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup thinly sliced radishes
2 tbsp thinly sliced scallions

1. Place the asparagus in a steamer basket, set over 1 1/2 inches boiling water and cover. Steam until the spears are tender-firm, 4 to 7 minutes depending on thickness. Drain and place in an ice water bath (or under cold, running water) for a moment to stop the cooking.

2. Put the olive oil, lemon juice, fresh mint, lemon zest, salt and pepper in a small bowl and whisk until well combined. Drain asparagus.

3. Combine the beans, feta, radishes and scallions in a large bowl. Add the asparagus pieces. Pour on the dressing and gently toss. Serve at room temperature or chilled.





Picking Asparagus

8 05 2009

asparagus at monroeEver since I was a child, I’ve loved to pick produce. My family still laughs about the time my grandfather tied apples to an out-of-season tree so I could go picking in the backyard; all smiles, I was too young to notice. So when Monroe Farms (my CSA) notified members that we could sign up to pick asparagus, I called immediately for a slot.

Asparagus picking is not like picking berries, cherries, apples or peaches. There are no leaves to speak of, no sturdy bushes or trees full of fruit to harvest. The field we were led to looked surprisingly empty, not to mention muddy, and I feared my kids would be disappointed over the seemingly slim pickings.

But I was wrong. What seemed to be occasional stalks sticking up in scraggly rows was really a cook’s dream. In less than 15 minutes we had walked the row, finding stalks that were thicker than a pencil and longer than our hand and snapping them off at the base. To our delight, we quickly filled a laundry basket with thin and thick spears. Per instructions, we even picked the uber-thick ones to clear the row; too fibrous to cook, my kids took them home and used them as swords and magic wands.

I’ve written about asparagus for 5280 before, so I knew that what we call asparagus is really the stem of a plant. If left unpicked it will “fern out,” developing branches and a canopy of leaves. This is why you should look for asparagus with tight tips; open or loose tips are a sign that this process is starting to take place, and that the base of the spears is turning woody and tough.

In the end, we harvested 11 pounds of organic asparagus, which I stored upright in jars with an inch of water, and also with the stems wrapped in wet tea towels in plastic bags. After putting it all away, I couldn’t resist calling Whole Foods to gauge what my fridge full of organic asparagus was worth. At $5.99 a pound, we had picked nearly $70 of this precious spring vegetable.

Over the next few days I will share several asparagus recipes, the first of which is Pasta with Asparagus-Lemon Sauce, which I’ve been making every spring since I discovered it nine years ago in Gourmet.





Pasta with Asparagus-Lemon Sauce

8 05 2009

One of my favorite springtime recipes is Pasta with Asparagus-Lemon Sauce from the May 2000 issue of Gourmet. Click here for the recipe.

To read my post about our adventure picking 11 pounds of asparagus last weekend, check out Picking Asparagus.








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