Tomato Bread Salad

24 09 2010

After two years of eating seasonally, my kids have learned to associate seasons with food. So when we returned home from the Harvest Festival at my farm share last weekend with a gallon of vine-ripened, organic tomatoes, my 3rd-grader begged for one of her favorites: tomato bread salad.

This is a salad that can only be made with the ripest, freshest, sweetest tomatoes, so we only make it this time of year. Making it in winter, even with those tantalizingly red tomatoes-on-the-vine, is akin to trick-or-treating on Easter. It just isn’t done. Bread is important, too, but there really is no wiggle room when it comes to tomatoes.

If you’ve never had bread salad before, you might be surprised that an eight-year-old would request it. But the dish is really just croutons and tomatoes, which isn’t that different from other carbohydrate-heavy combos that kids love, like noodles with red sauce or pizza. The trick is to assemble the two moments before serving, so the croutons stay crisp. Once the bread sits in the tomatoes it gets soggy, like cereal that’s sat too long. No way a kid is going to eat that. To round out the meal, heat up the grill and throw on sausage, chicken, whatever. Add a green salad and dinner is ready in no time.

Tomato Bread Salad
Preheat the oven to 400. Dice 4-6 tomatoes and put them in a non-reactive bowl, being careful not to lose any of the juices. Add kosher salt and several tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil and let it sit while you make the croutons. Tear a baguette into bite-sized pieces (larger is okay, just not smaller), drizzle them with extra-virgin olive oil and toast them on a lightly oiled cookie sheet until crisp and pale gold. Chop a few teaspoons of fresh basil. When you’re ready to eat, add half the croutons to the tomatoes and toss. Add more croutons until you get the right balance of tomatoes and bread. Taste and add more salt or extra-virgin olive oil as necessary, or even a splash of balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with basil and enjoy.





Pasta with Pesto — Easier than Take-Out

21 06 2010

My oldest child is a swimmer, so once a week we stumble out of bed at 5:45 to get her to the pool before the meet. We don’t get home until early afternoon, by which time my other kids are hot and tired and crabby. Did I say the other kids? I mean me, too.

After a swim meet, cooking is always the last thing on my mind. But by the time we got home from last week’s meet and played for a while, it seemed like more work to buckle everyone in car seats and drive somewhere. You know you’re tired when take-out seems too hard.

But what about dinner? Luckily I remembered I still had some pesto, which I’d frozen last summer when basil was coming in by the bunch from our farm share. I quickly thawed some out, cooked some whole wheat rotini, and sliced up mozzarella and organic grape tomatoes. While I cleaned spinach for salad, I sent my five-year-old out to the patio for fresh basil (he’s the proud gardener of the family). Before we knew it, we had dinner. Easier than take-out. And healthier, too.

Pesto Recipe
I’ve followed many pesto recipes over the years and now I don’t use a recipe at all. Simply wash and dry the basil (a cup at least, if not two) and throw it in the food processor. Process until coarse, then add salt and a few tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Process until smooth, adding more oil if necessary. Fresh parsley makes a nice addition (up to 1/2 cup), as does lemon juice. I skip pine nuts entirely, but sometimes throw in a handful of walnuts.

If I know I’m making it for the freezer, I don’t even add the garlic or cheese. I just spoon it into an ice cube tray and put it in the freezer. Later, I pop the individual blocks into a Ziploc for use all year long. Upon serving, I add a few cloves of garlic and lots of parmesan, plus more oil if needed.





Strawberry Tart

19 06 2010

I lucked out after college and landed a job in Paris. New to the city and without many friends, I spent my weekends reading Ernest Hemingway and wandering from bakery to bakery, cafe to cafe. Not healthy, perhaps, but loads of fun when you’re 22.

As much as I loved the baguettes and chocolate croissants, my favorite was the glistening tarte aux fraises (strawberry tart). Always the prettiest item in a patisserie, the tarts are irresistible with their flaky crust, pastry cream and sweet berries shining under a gentle apricot glaze. Now three kids and many jobs later, I still commemorate those fun expat years with a strawberry tart made from the summer’s first berries.

If you’ve never made a tart before, don’t worry. In many respects they’re easier than pie, though you do have to buy a tart pan. Even the pastry cream is simple as long as you give it your undivided attention. And because the tart doesn’t spend nearly as long in the oven as a pie, the oven isn’t on as long — a beautiful thing if you live in an old house and don’t have air conditioning, like me!

Strawberry Tart

1 pie crust (use your favorite recipe)
10″ tart pan
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup whole milk, divided
1 egg
2 egg yolks
6 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
fresh organic strawberries, washed and dried well

Roll crust into 14″ circle and line a 10″ tart pan with it. Run rolling pin over the edges to cut excess dough. Prick well with a fork and bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes or until done. Remove from oven and set aside.

To make pastry cream, dissolve cornstarch in 1/4 cup of the milk in a medium bowl, then add yolks and egg. Meanwhile, put sugar and 3/4 cup milk in a small pan over high heat until hot. All at once, add the hot milk to the cornstarch mixture, then return it to the pan over medium-high heat. Stir constantly, scraping bottom of pan as it thickens. When the mixture is thick and bubbly, reduce heat to medium and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and add butter and vanilla. Put pastry cream into a metal mixing bowl and set in an ice bath to cool. If you like, press plastic wrap on the top of the pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming.

When the crust and pastry cream are completely cool, spoon cream into the crust and arrange berries on top. If you have time, brush with an apricot glaze. (For glaze, take 1/2 cup apricot jam and 1 1/2 tablespoons water. Combine the jam and water in a small, heavy pan and bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce until it coats the back of a spoon, then cool.)






Asparagus Soup

7 06 2010


Welcome back! I wish I had a fantastic story to explain why I took such a long break from blogging (my longest ever), but I don’t. The truth is much more mundane.

I. Ran. Out. Of. Time.

Life happens with three kids, a paying gig as restaurant critic for Denver Magazine, and a tummy bug that overstayed its welcome. But now things have settled down and I can share this recipe for Asparagus Soup. I meant to post it weeks ago after picking pounds of pounds of asparagus at my farm share. But better late than never. Besides, where you live, asparagus might still be rolling in. (I believe today is the last day for picking at my CSA.)

If you look up “asparagus soup” in an old cookbook, you’re sure to find a recipe calling for lots of cream. Cream soups, like cream sauces and desserts that got lit on fire, were all the rage. Now, not so much. This soup is much fresher and lighter than the old cream of asparagus soups of yore, because instead of 1 cup of cream I just finish the soup with a splash of dairy. And if you want to skip it altogether, you can, as long as you have extra broth on hand to thin the soup.

One last thought: Sometimes asparagus seems too expensive to serve to guests. One pound barely serves four adults as a side dish, but it provides a more than adequate foundation for soup. In other words, if you have to pay $5.99 at Whole Foods to buy a pound of organic asparagus, you might want to stretch it into this easy but impressive soup.

Asparagus Soup
Serves 4

1 pound asparagus
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped onion
1 tablespoon butter
Dash of cream

Wash asparagus and snap off woody ends. Trim into one-inch pieces, reserving tips. Cook stems in 5 quarts of boiling salted water until tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from water with slotted spoon, run under cold water and set aside. Cook tips in same water, about 4 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon, rinse under cold water, and coarsely chop. Transfer all but tips to a food processor and puree until smooth, adding cooking water as necessary.

Melt butter in a soup pot and add onions, cooking over medium low about five minutes. Add chicken stock and asparagus puree and cook several more minutes, adding salt and pepper to taste. Add chopped asparagus tips and finish with a few tablespoons of heavy cream. Serve with a sprinkling of parmesan and slices of crusty baguette.







Personalities: Happy Heart Farm

10 05 2010

Community-supported agriculture isn’t just about produce. It’s about community, too. So I always love talking to the Colorado farmers who are bringing us the fruits and vegetables we’ve grown to love — before they get too busy in the fields to talk! For other profiles in this series, click “Personalities” under the “Categories” heading at right.

If you are lucky enough to live in Fort Collins and are able to become a member of Happy Heart Farm, you will be joining a strong community that goes back two decades. Owners Dennis and Bailey Stenson are credited with opening the first CSA in Colorado in 1990, long before movies like Food, Inc. and Michael Pollan’s books helped to popularize the movement.

Back in the late ‘80s, the Stensons had already been working at farmers markets for years when they decided to attend a conference in New Mexico on upcoming trends. Among the topics under discussion were co-housing and community supported agriculture. The latter resonated for many reasons. “To have the food presold was a huge thing,” recalls Bailey, who had young children at the time. She also appreciated “not having the stress of moving the food.”

Another aspect of the CSA model they particularly liked was the connection with members. Indeed, this connection remains as vital today as it was when they started. “We’ve chosen to stay a small farm instead of one with thousands of members because of it,” she explains. Members feel the connection, too: Happy Heart Farm has nearly 30 working members, one of the highest participation rates in the state. Last year, one member – a chef — even cooked meals. “To come up from the field and have food prepared for us was like a dream come true,” she said. The Stensons have also opened up their farm to apprentices and students in a commitment to sharing their knowledge and expanding their community.

The farm practices not just organic but biodynamic techniques, such as using homeopathic herb-based sprays for pest control and following the lunar and planetary calendars for planting and composting. For a member, a season at Happy Heart Farm typically starts in late May with spinach, cilantro, radishes and chives and ends in late October with herbs, squash, carrots, potatoes, cabbage and more. Along the way, members might receive anything from chard to Brussels sprouts, edamame to tomatoes. For a list of last year’s produce, broken out by week, click here .





CSA Alternative

19 04 2010

For years I’ve struggled with the concept of Door to Door Organics, a home-delivery service for organic produce, because it wasn’t entirely local. Bananas? Avocados? Definitely not from here.

But I just got wind of a new subscription option called “Local Farm Box,” which offers 100% local Colorado produce from June to October. Door to Door Organics is promising to deliver sourcing information and farm news along with the weekly box of goods. And, as always, they let you customize what’s in your box.

I still prefer cutting out the middleman and supporting the farmer directly, but for those of you along the Front Range who are on a waitlist for a CSA, this might be something to consider.





Welcome to SeedtoSpoon

13 03 2010

A big hello to readers who saw my flyer at the Just Between Friends (JBF) sale this weekend. I picked up some summer stuff for my kiddos yesterday, and I swear my three-year-old woke up extra early this morning to put on one of her new outfits! The JBF sale is definitely a great resource for parents.

I hope that SeedtoSpoon will be another great resource for you. As I said on the flyer, my goal is helping moms cook healthy. Many of us take extra care while we’re pregnant to eat really well, but it’s all too easy to slip into bad habits over time.

As a working mom myself, I know the challenges of putting food on the table. But no matter how little time you have to put a meal together, no matter how cranky your kids seem to be at that 5 o’clock “witching hour,” no matter how picky their palates…you can still put together healthy food. I’m here to help, with kid-friendly tips and seasonal recipes.

A word about my background. I’m a professional food writer, published in The New York Times, The Denver Post and city magazines, and I went to cooking school in New York. This blog is a passion for me, born out of experiences feeding my own three kids (ages 8, 5 and 3). Unlike many other blogs, which are snarky and self-absorbed in their quest to be entertaining, this blog is about you. I’m trying to share what I’m doing in my own kitchen to help and inspire you in yours.

As part of a regular column I wrote for a city magazine here in Denver, it was my job to work with chefs and test their recipes to make sure they worked in a home kitchen. That’s one thing that distinguishes the recipes you’ll find on my blog with so many others. Everything on my blog is something I’ve made and fed to my own family, so you’ll benefit from my tinkerings to get the recipe just right.

Let me know if you have any questions, and please consider subscribing. To do so, just enter your email address on the lower right-hand corner of the blog where it says “Subscribe”. It’s free, and you’ll get recipes delivered to your inbox. Thanks for reading, and welcome!








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