Grape Pie

26 09 2010

The family that lived in the house before us planted concord grapes, with dark purple skins, squishy green pulp, and an intense grape flavor associated more with Jolly Ranchers than fruit. Only problem is, the grapes are full of seeds. Eating them is tricky; imagine the seediest watermelon you’ve ever eaten, then shrink it to one-one thousandth the size, and you get the idea. For this reason, my three kids and I always monitor their growth, pick a few, then leave them to the squirrels.

But this morning, my 8-year-old and I woke up early, donned boots, and went out to harvest the grapes. I say this like we live on a farm, but really we own a tiny, urban lot in the heart of the city. The walk from house to back fence is barely 50 feet, but we might as well have been at a vineyard, so far away did we feel once our heads were tucked under leafy grapevines to search out the hidden fruit. We managed to fill the colander with eight cups, just what we needed for two grape pies, which are, as luck would have it, my husband’s childhood favorite.

This is not a fast recipe. Rather, this is a project, something to do with your kids or just by yourself simply because the end result is worth it. It’s like making applesauce. Yes, you could buy it at the store, but when you make it at home you get more than the food. You get the memories, too. Someday, I hope my kids are in Napa tasting wine or at a wedding at a vineyard and see the grapes hanging on the vines and remember the grape pies we made once a year when they were little. What follows is a photo journey through the steps.

After picking the grapes, we stemmed them and popped off the skins, a fun activity for all three kids. My aunt (who is visiting from Minnesota), was helping in the kitchen too, and when she tasted a grape she sighed, remembering the concord grapes from her own childhood on a farm in Ohio — and long-forgotten recipes that her mother used to make with them.

After separating the pulp from the skins, we cooked the pulp over low heat for 15 minutes to soften it up.

So far, the cooking project was just what we wanted. Then it came time to press the pulp through a fine strainer to remove the seeds. This step took what felt like forever, and more than once I felt myself getting impatient. (“Surely there’s a faster way to do this!” I kept thinking.) I had to force my mind to slow down, and I invited my son to leave his matchbox cars and help. It was while my kindergartener took a turn pressing the softened grapes with a big wooden spoon that he looked up at me and said, “Mommy, I LOVE this!” It was a moment I would’ve missed if I had succumbed to my normal mode of “get this done fast” and done it myself.

Next we combined the pulp, skins, lemon juice, orange zest, sugar and tapioca and let the filling sit for 15 minutes. Then I filled the waiting pie crusts and covered them with lattice tops. In the oven they went. To pass the time until the timer went off, my son rolled out the scraps of dough and sprinkled his “cookies” with cinnamon and sugar for a little treat. I could tell by his face that he liked these even more than Oreos. Don’t we always get more out of something when we work for it?

Right when the pies came out of the oven, we raced to a soccer game. By the time we got home, the pies were cool and ready to eat. Delicious!





A Bite of Summer

16 02 2009

Last fall, I met my first locavore.

A grandmother from northeastern Colorado, she learned to can as a teenager and now cans everything from salsa (some 75 pints of it) to soup mix. She also freezes and dehydrates a healthy portion of the fruits and vegetables from her garden and CSA. Thus in winter, when the rest of us are eating foods grown in different countries or on different continents, locally grown foods constitute about half of her diet.

Anyway, I was thinking about her today when I pulled a peach pie out of my oven. Lightly browned and bubbling, the pie’s buttery goodness tiptoed through the house, making everyone so giddy with the smells of summer that no one even noticed that night had fallen.

I met her while researching an article for a magazine. During the interview, she told me how she cleans, slices and sweetens peaches as if for pie. But instead of putting the filling in a pie shell, she puts it in a parchment-lined pie pan, seals it in a plastic bag and places it in the freezer. When the filling is frozen solid, she removes the pan and puts the filling back in the freezer. Whenever she wants peach pie, all she has to do is make a crust, plop in the filling and bake.

Genius, I thought. But I didn’t think I’d be organized enough to pull it off. Remember, I have three kids under the age of 7.

But then one Sunday last fall we visited the South Pearl Street farmers’ market. I talked to Steve Ela of Ela Family Farms about what variety the peaches were, how to store them, and what I should do if I got up the gumption to try my hand at canning. In the end I did can some (more on that later), but I also made and froze pies. Several of them. All because of my conversation with the locavore.

And now here we are months later, celebrating my mom’s arrival from Washington, D.C. with a homemade peach pie. I get brownie points because peach is her favorite.

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Click here for the recipe for Homemade Peach Pie.





Homemade Peach Pie

16 02 2009

Dough For a Two-Crust Pie

2 1/2 cups unbleached flour (I use half white and half whole wheat)
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp baking powder
16 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
6-8 tablespoons cold water (or a bit more, if using wheat flour)

Whisk flour, salt and baking powder in a medium bowl. Use a pastry blender or two knives to cut in the butter, working until pea-sized pieces of butter remain. Add 6 tablespoons of water and stir, adding remaining water as necessary until dough holds together. Divide dough into three balls. Take each one and press down and away from you with the heel of your hand to squish the dough into a long, thin strip; this technique further incorporates the butter and produces the divine flakiness of the crust. When you’re done lump it back into one piece, then divide it into two equal balls. Flatten each into a disc and wrap in plastic wrap or wax paper. Refrigerate until firm.

Peach Pie
Adapted from The Fannie Farmer Cookbook

1/2 to 1 cup sugar (with good peaches, I use the lesser amount)
4 tablespoons flour
1/8 tsp nutmeg or cinnamon
4 cups peeled and sliced peaches
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a pie pan with half the pastry dough. Mix the sugar, flour and nutmeg or cinnamon in a large bowl. Add the peaches and lemon juice and toss well. Pile the fruit into the lined pie pan. Top with whatever kind of second crust you like (I prefer a lattice crust because it’s so pretty.) Flute the edges to seal, then brush with milk and dust with sugar. Bake for 10 minutes then lower the heat to 350 degrees and bake 30-40 minutes more, until the top is browned. P.S. With my frozen filling, the pie took about 15 minutes longer.








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