Strawberry Mousse

28 04 2011

Spring is in full bloom and summer will be here before we know it. Now is the time to use up any fruits and vegetables you froze last summer so there’s room for this year’s goodies.

My kids love berries so about half my deep freezer was devoted to organic strawberries, blueberries and raspberries. We spent the winter enjoying them in homemade frozen yogurt, cakes and pies, but last night I decided to try something different: mousse.

This recipe is one of my childhood favorites, a specialty of my grandmother who spent many hours watching Julia Child and many more hours teaching me my way around the kitchen. Make it with fresh or frozen strawberries, but remember to buy organic because strawberries tend to soak up pesticide and you don’t want that with your dessert. To serve, spoon into espresso cups or small glass bowls; a small portion is all you need given all the cream.

Strawberry Mousse
10 ounces frozen strawberries or 1/2 pint fresh
3-ounce package strawberry gelatin
A few tablespoons sugar
1/2 pint heavy whipping cream

Clean the strawberries if using fresh, and crush them. Sweeten with a few tablespoons of sugar and set aside. If there’s any juice, drain it and pour it into a measuring cup. Fill with water to reach 3/4 cup. Pour liquid into a small pan and bring to a boil, then add gelatin, stirring to dissolve. Remove from heat and cool. Meanwhile, whip cream into stiff peaks. When gelatin mixture is cool, stir into strawberries, then fold in cream. Pour into a medium glass bowl and refrigerate for several hours.






Strawberry Tart

19 06 2010

I lucked out after college and landed a job in Paris. New to the city and without many friends, I spent my weekends reading Ernest Hemingway and wandering from bakery to bakery, cafe to cafe. Not healthy, perhaps, but loads of fun when you’re 22.

As much as I loved the baguettes and chocolate croissants, my favorite was the glistening tarte aux fraises (strawberry tart). Always the prettiest item in a patisserie, the tarts are irresistible with their flaky crust, pastry cream and sweet berries shining under a gentle apricot glaze. Now three kids and many jobs later, I still commemorate those fun expat years with a strawberry tart made from the summer’s first berries.

If you’ve never made a tart before, don’t worry. In many respects they’re easier than pie, though you do have to buy a tart pan. Even the pastry cream is simple as long as you give it your undivided attention. And because the tart doesn’t spend nearly as long in the oven as a pie, the oven isn’t on as long — a beautiful thing if you live in an old house and don’t have air conditioning, like me!

Strawberry Tart

1 pie crust (use your favorite recipe)
10″ tart pan
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup whole milk, divided
1 egg
2 egg yolks
6 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
fresh organic strawberries, washed and dried well

Roll crust into 14″ circle and line a 10″ tart pan with it. Run rolling pin over the edges to cut excess dough. Prick well with a fork and bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes or until done. Remove from oven and set aside.

To make pastry cream, dissolve cornstarch in 1/4 cup of the milk in a medium bowl, then add yolks and egg. Meanwhile, put sugar and 3/4 cup milk in a small pan over high heat until hot. All at once, add the hot milk to the cornstarch mixture, then return it to the pan over medium-high heat. Stir constantly, scraping bottom of pan as it thickens. When the mixture is thick and bubbly, reduce heat to medium and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and add butter and vanilla. Put pastry cream into a metal mixing bowl and set in an ice bath to cool. If you like, press plastic wrap on the top of the pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming.

When the crust and pastry cream are completely cool, spoon cream into the crust and arrange berries on top. If you have time, brush with an apricot glaze. (For glaze, take 1/2 cup apricot jam and 1 1/2 tablespoons water. Combine the jam and water in a small, heavy pan and bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce until it coats the back of a spoon, then cool.)





Strawberries with Balsamic

25 06 2009

IMG_0922
Like most commercial jellies and jams, fresh fruit desserts tend to be too sweet. Buy a pie at a restaurant and chances are it will be cloying. Even at home, when I cut the sugar in half, many pies and cobblers taste overly sweet. Which is why, after eating so many strawberry-centric desserts these past few days, I went in search of a berry dessert that would break this pattern.

I found it in Simply Sensational Desserts, by Francois Payard, a recipient of the prestigious James Beard “Pastry Chef of the Year” award and owner of New York’s famed Payard Patisserie. In it, there is no creme anglaise, no sweet tart dough, no whipped cream and hardly any sugar.

Instead, there are strawberries, two tablespoons of sugar and a smidgen of butter. Oh, and balsamic vinegar to “open your palate,” as it says in the recipe. If you’re concerned it’s too haute for the kiddos, it’s really not. My two-year-old ate more of out my bowl than I did, and my four-year-old finished his strawberries then tipped the bowl and drank the sauce.

Fricassee of Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar
from Simply Sensational Desserts by Francois Payard

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
2 pints ripe strawberries, washed, hulled and cut into quarters
1 tablespoon good-quality aged balsamic vinegar

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sugar and strawberries and cook, tossing the strawberries to coat them evenly, for about 1 minute. Add the balsamic vinegar and toss the strawberries until coated.
2. Spoon the strawberries into six shallow bowls and serve immediately.





Strawberry Muffins on a Snowy Day

27 04 2009

With a wet, late-April snow falling outside, I knew our plans of swings and sand toys would have to wait for another morning. So I did what I always do with time on my hands and little ones to amuse: I baked.

To kids, cooking is a science project, a marvelous exploration of textures and colors and smells. To parents, it’s an opportunity to turn “to-do list” time into “quality time,” as you explore the softness of flour and the scent of vanilla while making something yummy (and hopefully healthy) to eat.

A peek in the fridge revealed a half-empty carton of buttermilk, so I knew our recipe would start there. Then I flipped through cookbooks, looking for something to fit the occasion. Lemon buttermilk pound cake? Delicious, but too rich and sweet so early in the day. Buttermilk rolls? Too much like dinner and not enough fun. Buttermilk muffins? Sold.

As my daughter stirred the melted butter into the bowl of eggs, buttermilk and vanilla, we marveled at the butter. Remember how it had started out hard, like one of her blocks, and was now runny like water? Kind of like the snow outside, which could be hard like a snowball or runny if left to melt. Little lessons, to be sure, but ones that will keep her climbing up on the counter for more together time — and more opportunities to learn about the food we eat and how to make her own healthy choices.

This being a snowy day and all, I decided to sweeten things up with a cup of half-thawed organic strawberries, picked last fall at Berry Patch Farms. These were for my oldest child, who prefers fruit to chocolate chips inside her muffins, and who, I knew, would be thrilled to find our strawberry buttermilk treats on her plate for an after-school snack.

img_06351Click here for the recipe for Strawberry Buttermilk Muffins.





Strawberry Buttermilk Muffins

27 04 2009

This recipe is adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, by Deborah Madison. Makes 18 muffins.

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/3 cups buttermilk
1/3 cup butter, melted
1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup sliced strawberries, gently tossed with 1 tbsp flour

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line muffin tins with muffin cups. Mix the dry ingredients in one bowl and the wet ingredients in a second bowl, then combine them with a few swift strokes. Using a rubber spatula, stir the batter up from the bottom of the bowl to make sure that there are not any pockets of flour. Gently stir in strawberries. Don’t beat the batter and don’t worry about a slightly uneven appearance. Spoon or scoop the batter into the tins, going nearly to the top for a nicely rounded muffin. Bake in the upper third of the oven until browned and well risen, about 25 minutes. Turn out the muffins and serve.








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